With a Short Trip to One of My Most Favorite Spots in the World… Arashiyama!
King crabs are a popular delicacy in Osaka…
After staying a week in Kuala Lumpur and then back to Bangkok, a good buddy of mine I knew from my government contract days asked if I wanted to head over to Osaka for sushi. Why not?
Osaka has a special place in my heart. After living in Osaka for 3 months my fondness for the city by the bay grew with everyday I spent living there. I enjoyed mingling with the friendly and hospitable people the most. Working and staying in Japan for me was a real privilege. And a relief from my official duties back in the days.
But before the big sushi dinner I had to make a stop at one of the most magical places on this earth, Arashiyama!
How to Go to Arashiyama from Osaka
At Osaka Station take the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Line 新快速towards Yasu to Kyoto Station
At Kyoto Station take the JR San-In Line 各停towards Sonobe and stop at Saga-Arashiyama Station
At Saga-Arashiyama take the train to Arashiyama Station
Even in early September you can start to see the leaves getting ready to turn to its Autumn colors…
But there is another place I enjoy and you will too just an 1 hour and 40 minutes away called Arashiyama, which is a district of Kyoto City. The train fare from Osaka to Arashiyama cost ¥970.
The best way to get around Arashiyama is by bicycle. And there are a few places near the train station where you can rent a bicycle for ¥800 a day.
But there’s one area where you can’t really bike all the way up to. And that’s Mount Arashiyama! And you can only get up there the old fashioned way.
After walking up Mount Arashiyama I got hungry. It’s a pretty steep climb up a lot of man made steps. But when you get up there the view is so well worth it!
After spending an hour enjoying the splendid view of Kyoto, it was time to get back down and get on that train heading back to Osaka and chow down on some of the best sushi this side of Japan.
Osaka, Day or Night?
Osaka at night is magical. The day was warm but the evening got cooler. Which is why I decided on a day trip in Arashiyama before meeting my friends for that special sushi dinner.
We went to the same old sushi restaurant we’ve always been to when we had long days of intense planning and meetings. Can’t believe it’s still open after all these years!
I forget how many pieces of sushi I’ve downed and how many sake I’ve guzzled but it was one of the most memorable nights of my life.
I have to say I’m not the sort of traveler that does a lot of pre-trip planning. I never even heard of Kawagoe (川越) in Japan before I googled “day trips near Tokyo”. And it was only on that day I decided on visiting Kawagoe when I discovered that it was just 30 minutes away from Tokyo where I was staying at the time via train at Ikebukuro Station on the Tobu Toju Line.
Kawogoe is a small city in Saitama Prefecture, with a population of around 340,000. Not a big city when compared to Tokyo but if you’re looking for that old world Edo Period charm than Kawagoe won’t disappoint you.
What to Do and See in Kawagoe
One of Kawagoe’s claim to fame is the Bell Tower located near Kurazukuri Street which is a popular section of the city famous for its old warehouse style shops. It’s an area made up of small alleys upon back alleys and a real fun to walk around and just get lost for awhile
There is supposed to be an area loaded with shops selling snacks and treats that is very popular with tourists and locals alike. But I missed it. I guess I should do a little more pre-trip planning (“my sarcastic inner child tells me”).
The Confectionery Row (菓子屋横丁 ) is where you’ll find the Bell Tower…
You truly get a sense of how things were back then during Japan’s classical Edo era. I truly appreciate Japan’s effort to recapture and retain their culture and not lose their identity among today’s fast paced world.
We visited Kawagoe during the weekend and yes it was packed full of locals and sight seeing folks like us. The weather was terrific, around mid 70°F and just a total pleasure to be outside with so many smiling folks out and about.
And even though there were a lot of people all around which I normally don’t prefer, being there on a busy weekend at Kawagoe was still very enjoyable.
I already mentioned Kawagoe is famous for it’s confectionary which I had not known about. Kawagoe is also very famous for it’s sweet potatoes too which I love eating. But again, I had no idea. Which could be a good thing as I’m avoiding carbs.
So my wife and I went around and about looking for some grub. After a bit of walking around and a whole lot of indecision we dropped into a very busy restaurant and was lucky enough to score two seats.
There was a simple menu in Japanese with pictures luckily. We just chose a set menu, not knowing what we really ordered but there’s buckwheat soba noodles. There was also some grilled sticky rice dumpling which I just discovered after some googling while writing this post called Dango.
The buckwheat soba noodles were delicious. Though I’m not sure if we were in a vegetarian restaurant or not. Because as far as we could tell everyone around us didn’t have any sort of meat in their bowls. And I have to admit I was expecting some sliced pork in my bowl of soba noodles, just digging around but there was only bamboo and Dango.
The Dango however we were not a great fan of. Now I’m not saying it’s not any good. I honestly do not want to insult the establishment. They have lots of happy customers dining on Dango. We just weren’t digging it.
Main street in Kawagoe…
After a little while of strolling and exploring the side streets it was about time for a little bit of rest. And a snack too while at it. And oh yeah coffee!
I wish that I could try all of their bagels…
Bread pudding made with bagels…
Shakerato… a shaken iced espresso drink…
We passed by Vanitoy Bagel shop and decided to drop in for some much needed afternoon coffee buzz. The first floor is the shop’s counter space display with dozens of varieties of bagels with the bakery in the back. The seating space is upstairs and it’s very cozy and comfortable. They do have English picture menus and two items caught my eye instantly, the bread pudding and the Shakerato. While my wife ordered a hot latte.
Our order was delicious. Do yourself a favor, if you’re in Kawagoe, drop by Vanitoy Bagel shop. If I’m ever back in Kawagoe Vanitoy Bagel shop is my go to pit stop.
Kitain Temple is located not far at all from the main street of Kawagoe…
Kitain Temple
There is a bit more to Kawagoe besides charming shops and possibly one of the best bagel shops in my book. You should also drop by Kitain Temple which is a short walking distance from the main street.
There is an entrance fee of 400 Yen at Kitain Temple. Besides the temple, there are smaller complexes which was a part of an old Edo Castle that survived a fire and was moved to Kitain in the mid 1600’s. That in itself is a good reason why you would want to visit Kawagoe. It’s not a big section however and you will get to see a classic example of a fine Japanese garden in the back.
A very nice view of traditional Japanese gardens at Kitain…
Back near the entrance where you purchased your ticket is a smaller courtyard filled with 540 small statues. Wander around these statues and you’ll see that each have distinctive features. You might even receive some good luck as the story goes.
Gohyaku Rakan statues at Kitain Temple in Kawagoe…
These statutes are called Gohyaku Rakan. You’ll find that coins are placed on these statues too as an offering for good luck in return.
Gohyaku Rakan statues…
Kawagoe is not a huge area and it’s great day trip kind of place because it’s only 30 minutes away by train from Tokyo. From my experience may times it’s great to get and explore such places away from the big cities. And even though Kawagoe doesn’t have too much to do I would still go there again. Especially for that bread pudding at Vanitoy Bagels. Okay enough about the bagels.
How to Get to Kawagoe from Tokyo
There are only three train lines that go from Tokyo to Kawagoe:
Tobu Toju Line – At Ikebukuro Station takes 3o minutes on an express train and cost 470 Yen one way. There is a discounted round trip fare you can buy at the station booth for 700 Yen. This is the train we took while we stayed at a hotel near the station.
Seibu Shinjuku Line – Seibu Shinjuku Station takes about 1 hour and fare cost 500 Yen one way.
JR Saikyo/Kawagoe Line – Shinjuku Station takes about 1 hour and fare cost 760 Yen one way. Kind of expensive luckily but this route is covered by JR Rail Pass.
Been to Kawagoe? Let me know about your experience. Make sure to comment below if you have any questions about visiting Kawagoe!
The Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama – Just Right for a Visit in Kyoto
One of the biggest advice on saving hotels in Japan is to look for a hotel that is not in the center of whichever major city you are visiting.
For example while visiting Kyoto, I booked the Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama. It’s a 2 star business hotel situated in Biwako, which has a train station that is only 4 stops (15 mins.) away from Kyoto Station via Special Rapid Train on the Biwako Line.
How to Get to Reiah Hotel
And the Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama is a short 5 minute walk from Ishiyama Station. Once you get to the station I recommend asking for assistance at the station booth. Train staff know exactly where the hotel is and they’ll pull out a photocopied map and tell you which way to go.
One key landmark is a McDonald’s restaurant on a corner of the block. Once you see McDonald’s you’ll have no problem at all finding the hotel.
Not a Fancy Hotel – But It’s Comfortable and Clean
The Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama is a 2 star business hotel. All over Japan there are many 2 star business classed hotels meant for local business travelers either in town for business or for white collared workers who missed that last train. Remember, Japanese trains stop service between midnight and 1AM.
Small rooms, but that shouldn’t be a surprise…
It is common that 2 star business hotels all over Japan have small rooms. And I have stayed in many around Tokyo and elsewhere and I can say most of these budget rooms are 15 square meters. I have to admit though with two people in a 15 square meter room such as the ones at Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama it may seem way too cozy. But you do get used to it.
The bathroom… small but functional…
The bathroom at first sight is shockingly small. But you’ll soon learn to get used to it too. I’m 6 foot tall but there is clearance above my head. There is a bathtub but if I sit in it my knees would be sticking up. Soap, shampoo and even toothpaste and toothbrush are provided.
Even though the Reiah is a budget business class hotel we didn’t see a lot of local business guests. We mainly came across foreign tourists. These days, since travel to Japan is becoming more accessible to Southeast Asia travelers budget 2 star hotels like the Reiah are welcoming more neighboring foreigners.
This is the first budget business class hotel in Japan I stayed in that offered free breakfast…
What might also attract a lot of tourists to this hotel too is the free breakfast. They don’t have a huge spread. Though what they do have will definitely fill you up for a day of sightseeing.
Hotel cafeteria with free breakfast buffet…
Curry with rice, scrambled eggs with bacon. There’s also congee with pickles, a more traditional Japanese breakfast too. And of course there’s an assortment of breads and fruits.
This is a very clean hotel. It’s not big with only about 80 rooms. But it’s quite modern because it was renovated back in 2011. There’s even a small laundry room where you can wash your clothes at a very affordable price. So you won’t need to pack too much clothes on your trip.
The Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama is a very good budget choice hotel for visiting Kyoto. But from this hotel’s location you can also conveniently visit other major cities such as Osaka and Kobe by taking the trains from Kyoto Station like we did.
There really isn’t much to do around the hotel’s area however. But my wife and I still enjoyed walking around. It’s peaceful, quiet and a lot less hectic than staying in the city.
If you are a big castle fanatic like I am, and you’re wondering which castle I would suggest you visit first in Japan, I would name HimejiCastle with no hesitation. Himeji Castle is one of the largest in Japan and easily visited as a day trip from Kyoto and Osaka in the Kansai region.
Before you read on you might want to take a look at my last post about Kansai region take a look here. It’ll give you an idea about traveling by train to the area’s points of interests.
Day Trip to Himeji Castle
Himeji is a city west of Kyoto. About 132 km with Osaka and Kobe in between. Himeji is not just any ordinary run of the mill city in Japan. If you are a castle fanatic like I am then you will want to go to Himeji Castle.
And it was a gorgeous day too. The temperature was in the high 60 degrees fahrenheit and partially cloudy. The air was so fresh and clean. One of the things I love about Japan is the clean fresh air.
Himeji Castle is also called the White Heron Castle…
How I Got There
From Kyoto Station I took the Special Rapid Train. The ride takes about 90 minutes to Himeji Station. Normally the train fare would cost 2270 Yen. But since I got the 4 Day JR travel pass I didn’t have to pay.
From Himeji station just follow the English signs. When you’re out of the station you will see the castle which may look far away but you can walk up the road to the castle in around 15 minutes. And it’s a lovely walk past many shops.
What’s So Special About Himeji Castle
To me, this is the mother of all medieval castles in Japan. It’s immense size and cultural significance has placed it rightly as a world heritage site and national treasure.
A map showing how immense Himeji Castle complex is…
We were here during October but the leaves haven’t fully changed colors yet…
But too bad we couldn’t get into the main fortress. Yup, just our luck we picked a time when the main structure was under major renovation and will be open to the public again March 2015.
So we walked around the castle grounds and made the best of it. Because Himeji Castle is so massive and filled with natural beauty there is still plenty to see. It’s amazing to see that this castle that is basically built during feudal wars has so much beauty surrounding it.
A small exhibition of Himeji Castle armory…
Through Japan’s feudal period, Himeji Castle was expanded through various clan controls. Which resulted in a lot of history. And because Himeji Castle was largely untouched by war and natural disasters what you see today is basically what it looked back then.
From up in Himeji Castle you can see the city below…
Wandering around the gardens you can’t help but admire the beautiful architecture. The way the buildings are combined with nature is amazing.
You’ll find some exhibits about castle life…
Take a look at the fake cat on the photo above… looks quite similar to this live kitty right?
Himeji Castle is also a museum of sorts. Throughout the castle surroundings you can find these nooks and crannies with educational exhibits. And you can learn all sort of things such as life during feudal Japan. There is even a nice little exhibit for the kids showing the methods of how the fortress was built and assembled.
But of the course the biggest treat is walking around the well kept gardens. And there are so many ponds filled with giant koi fish. I learned somewhere that Japanese gardens are all planned and designed. Certain stones and trees are carefully laid out to make a garden more pleasing to the eye.
A family enjoying a beautiful day in Himeji Castle…
You don’t have to be a total castle fanatic like me to appreciate the awesomeness of Himeji Castle. Anyone will appreciate the beauty and history surrounding the castle.
There’s no other country in Asia that I want to visit more than Japan. I try to visit Japan as much as I can, as frequently as I can and for as long as I can. Here I’ve put together a little Japan visitor’s guide that will give you a glimpse of several popular cities in Japan’s Kansai region.
Where is Kansai?
Kansai region is located on the largest island of Japan, H0nshu. If you haven’t heard of Kansai region until now then I’m sure you’ve heard of Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe that are just several names of Honshu’s southern coastal cities.
Just for a little point of reference Tokyo is located up north in the Kanto region and Hiroshima is south in the Chugoku region.
So I’m going to break this post up into 2 parts. This particular post will basically show you what I did after landing in Kansai Airport. Plus you’ll find a few Japan travel tips because we all know the country has a reputation for being pricey. So I’ll mention in my posts where to find cheapish eats and general tips on finding some good affordable grub.
You Don’t Need a Massive Budget to Visit Japan – But It Helps
Yeah, we’ve all heard that Japan is one expensive country to explore. And I suppose that’s one of the reasons why most people don’t bother coming here at all. But there are ways to explore Japan on the cheap, or at least affordably, especially if you’re planning on visiting the cities of Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe.
From Don Mueang Airport you can fly direct to Japan via Air Asia…
I’m based in Bangkok, Thailand most of the year. So far I’ve been flying with Air Asia X. They have direct flights from Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok on to Kansai International Airport. From Kansai, you’ve got your choice of visiting either Kyoto or Osaka first. A round trip airfare cost about $350USD to $400USD. You can find it cheaper air fares though. Air Asia has these crazy limited cheap deals once in awhile but you gotta be Johnny on the spot to catch them. Plus you’ll have to have flexible travel dates.
For this trip to Japan I chose to stay in the city of Kyoto. The hotel I picked was Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama (here’s a review). But because I arrived into Kansai Airport a bit late in the night I decided to book a room at an airport hotel nearby, the Hotel Nikko Kansai Airport (review coming soon). I was traveling with my wife and she doesn’t take to flying so well, even though it was only a 5 hour flight. So a full night rest would do her some good.
Even though it cost $145USD for one night at Hotel Nikko it was worth it. My wife felt better and the sun was out and bright. It was a great morning October morning! Even though the room cost a lot breakfast was not included. Luckily, there is a Lawsons Convenience store downstairs where I stocked up on some sandwiches and green tea.
Go Food Shopping at Lawsons, 7 Elevens and Family Mart
One of the biggest tips and tricks to saving some money while visiting Japan is to shop for snacks, drinks and meals foods at convenience stores. Besides Lawsons, you have a choice of 7 Eleven and Family Mart. All are stocked full of heat and ready to eat meals, breakfast, lunch and dinner! It’s not junk food, although if you want it you’ll find plenty of junk food as well as healthier alternatives. And you can find anyone of them all over the big cities of Japan.
Even if you can splurge a little on an expensive hotel you can still go cheap on food. At the Hotel Nikko Kansai Airport where we stayed overnight there was a Lawsons convenience store downstairs. There are 7 Elevens located inside the airport so you have plenty of options for cheap good eats.
Plenty of affordable food inside Lawsons. It’s just like a 7 Eleven…
Japan Rail Systems – Your Best Friend
Next thing I needed to do was get some Japan Rail (JR) train passes. Getting around Japan by train is affordable and convenient. It’s not exactly cheap but it beats the hell out of hiring a taxi. Luckily foreign tourists can get discounts on train fare package deals.
A JR ticketing office was right between the Hotel Nikko and outside of the Kansai Airport arrival area, just a short distance away. Even early in the morning there was a line filled with eager recently arrived travelers.
The Haruka Express Airport train will take you to Osaka and Kyoto fast… It’s also included in the price of a JR rail pass (more about that below)…
I purchased the 4 Day JR Kansai Area Pass. With this pass I get unlimited rides within 4 days to explore Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe plus all the smaller yet beautiful naturesque towns that Japan is so famous for.
There are loads to see within these areas…
These passes are available in increments of 1 day up to a maximum of 4 days. The 4 Day JR Kansai Pass cost 6500 Yen and that is an absolute bargain. Even though I mentioned I visited Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe I was also able to drop my Himeji where the famed Himeji Castle resides. We also visited Nara too. I wanted to check out Hikone and Wakayama too.
Because there is so much to see in every city we took our time and never rushed. What’s the point of traveling if you can’t enjoy it all?
You get discounts for purchasing before arrival, however you’ll have to pay for shipping… Note these rates are as of December 12th 2015…
If you want to purchase these JR Passes ahead of time you can do so via Japan Rail Pass website. But you’ll be paying for Fedex delivery, unless you’re ordering $600USD worth of tickets shipping is free. However, ordering your rail passes ahead of time will save you 200 Yen. But I’m sure FEDEX delivery is not cheap.
This cool little booklet contains your pass…
Inside you’ll find your pass along with a little map and usage instructions…
Since I was purchasing my 4 Day Kansai Area Pass on the spot I paid 65ooYen times two, one for me and one for my wife. And if you are purchasing your passes in a JR rail office make sure you have your passports on hand. These JR rail passes are offered only to foreign tourists. No passport, no passes.
A view from the Haruka Express Train
Okay, so you’ve got your JR passes so you can explore major cities around Kansai area of Japan. But you’ll need a way to get around via the local trains. And you’ll also need a way to get from Kansai Airport to your city of choice. That’s where the Airport Express Haruka comes in to save the day!
Top card is a Haruka ticket… Bottom is ICOCA card which you can use to access JR trains…
Purchase the ICOCA and Haruka Package
This ticket package includes round trip rides on Airport Express Haruka trains which is an awesome way to get out of Kansai airport through Osaka and onto Kyoto. There’s a couple of things you should know however…
A Couple of Tips on Riding the Haruka Express
This particular type of Haruka ticket is for the non reserved seat train. So I recommend lining up at the non-reserved seat train unless you enjoy standing. If all the seats are taken there is standing room. The train ride from Kansai Airport to Kyoto Station takes 75 minutes. To Shin-Osaka (Osaka) it’s 50 minutes. So get to the train early if you want a good seat to enjoy Japan’s beautiful countryside as you whiz by 80mph.
As of writing the last Haruka train on a leaves at 20:15 and arriving into Kansai Airport at 21:43. I’m pointing this out because I once assumed Haruka ran until midnight. So it’s really important that you check your trains’ time tables ahead of time.
This ICOCA card has 2000Yen loaded in it and you can use it ride JR trains or purchase food from convenience stores…
Since I was staying at a hotel off a suburb near Kyoto I had to change trains at Kyoto Station. This station is located in the hub of the city with many points of interest close by in walking distance. Kyoto is one gorgeous city to walk or even bike around. But if you want to get somewhere quicker like the Gion District that is famous for Geishas it’s best to use the city buses located outside of Kyoto Station.
There is a bus station right outside of this entrance…
Kyoto Station is also a good place to find food and shops…
We didn’t explore outside of the station yet because we still had our luggage. And it was best to check in before heading back out. The hotel I was staying at Reiah Hotel Otsu Ishiyama is located near Ishiyama Station on the JR Biwako line. Which was only about 14 minutes if you take the special rapid train.
There is the Airport bus option which I’ve heard is cheaper. But obviously bus rides take longer. I don’t have any information at all on buses, sorry to say. If you can afford it I would highly recommend using the trains.
So that’s all I have to share for now. Like everything else for travelers to Japan you will find it is a super foreigner friendly country. Nearly every major train station there is a tourist center staffed with folks that can speak English fluently as well as other foreign languages. And there are plenty of signs in English too.
I’ll be working on my post on visiting Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe and other can’t miss spots in Kansai really soon. So stay tuned!
