It’s the middle of August in Hanoi. It was hot, humid and utterly uncomfortable. The heat mercilessly drains your energy with every step you take along the narrow winding streets, past zipping motorbikes and friendly old Vietnamese women selling fruit and vegetables.
But this is post is not a rant on how much I hate Hanoi and its despicable soul sucking heat. Matter of fact I love Hanoi. I love it despite its heat and humidity amongst the city’s mass of hectic cacophony glory. I love Vietnam.
The wonderful people of Hanoi having fun on a hot sultry night…
So what if Hanoi is not ideal period to visit in August? At least the hotels in the city are very affordable at that time. And there are plenty of dessert and cà phê shops all over to duck into and load up on the classic Vietnamese coffee or what I affectionately refer to as rocket fuel.
I’ve been to Ho Chi Minh a couple of times this was my first trip to Hanoi. And I’m still kicking myself on why it took me so long to visit this wonderful capital of Vietnam. And there are more places I’d like to visit as well but so far I’m just hopscotching along as I go. But one reason why we were in Hanoi was because we wanted to visit Halong Bay and Ninh Binh province which are a few hours away by car near the northern coast of Vietnam.
Aside from the friendly people, wonderful culture and architecture, you all know how much I love food. Travel and food goes hand in hand after all. And while in Vietnam you gotta have the quintessential Banh Mi.
So I did a search on Tripadvisor on which restaurant has the best Banh Mi in the vicinity of Hanoi’s Old Quarter where I was staying. And I found Banh Mi 25, which was just a 5 minute walk from my hotel. I found it with a little difficulty because the streets of Hanoi are small with many twists and turns.
They have a small menu but I ordered a sandwich with everything on it which cost around $1US. Their Banh Mi are small though. Luckily I ordered 2!
I eagerly made my way back to my hotel to scarf those babies down and when I did I was surprised I was full. And my wife had a worried look on her face because I looked like a rabid dog eating its last meal.
A very beautiful lake in the Old Quarter of Hanoi…
To help me digest we planned a walk around Hoàn Kiếm Lake in the evening. There’s a very interesting story or legend relating to the lake which you can check out here on the ol’ wikipedia. But long story short it has something to do with a sword, a golden turtle and a local god. And there are still turtles in the lake that are quite famous.
Hoàn Kiếm Lake is about 2 kilometers around. Which is a good walk to work of those sandwiches. Those Banh Mi sandwichs, still think about them yummmm….
In the lake resides Jade Island. This is an entrance to it across the Huc Bridge…
But I got hungry after walking around. Because it was so hot and I was dripping in sweat that the calories poured out of my skin. Luckily around the halfway mark we spotted a Pho restaurant.
I’ll probably get booed for this but the best Pho hands down is still back in NYC’s Chinatown. I’m not saying I don’t like Pho in Vietnam. I just haven’t found Pho anywhere else in Vietnam that matches my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in NYC.
Yummy Pho goodness…
The restaurant I went to in Hanoi is called Pho 24. It’s a chain of Pho restaurants I’m used to in Ho Chi Minh City. And my wife enjoys it so I’m not complaining at all because the Pho powered me back up for another round of wandering around Hanoi.
Hanoi is certainly one lively city during the night. Everyone is about and about. The cyclos are merrily on their way with tourists snapping pictures happily. Locals are in the parks, around the lakes, sitting down and chatting with friends or simply strolling around. There’s certainly romance in the air. And I mean that literally.
I know, it’s a blurry photo but you get the point…
Lots of wedding photos were taken all around the lake, mostly in the areas where the backgrounds are more scenic. But wedding pictures were also taken out in front of Hanoi’s posh malls which near southeast corner of Hoàn Kiếm Lake.
As always heed the traffic signals. There are lots of traffic on the road…
Hoàn Kiếm Lake is the center of activity for Hanoi’s locals, from morning to night. There’s no doubt about it. You can tell despite the high humidity everyone is out to enjoy the night.
But that’s not all there is to do around the Old Quarters of Hanoi at night. If you’re there on the weekends there is a night market located about a 5 minute walk due north of Hoàn Kiếm Lake. But a word of warning, even though it’s night the temperature is still warm and humid. I know, I keep mentioning it’s hot but it is.
Factor in that there are shoulder to shoulder sweaty tourists and locals too walking up and down the narrow one street night market. So there’s plenty of body heat going around making the experience uncomfortable. Wear some comfortable loose fitting clothes, drink plenty of fluids and carry a towel cause you’ll need it.
I haven’t bought anything though my wife bought a bunch of small little coin bags with traditional Vietnamese motifs to take home as souvenir gifts. The more you quantities you buy the better discounts you get is the standard rule.
Hanoi’s Night Market is narrow but goes quite far and as far as we walked we couldn’t make it all the way through. There were too many people and as much water as we were drinking it was all coming back out via sweat.
Classic Vietnamese coffee with coconut cake, a real knockout combination…
Luckily, Hanoi is coffee heaven. There are many small and large cafes. We’ve picked quite a few during our stay in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and each and everyone we were happy. Vietnamese coffee is one of the best in the world. And they are proud and should be and you can see it in many of the small coffee shops.
This was our first night in Hanoi. It was a wonderful day and an awesome start for our trip in Vietnam And we’ve booked a day tour that starts early in the morning. A couple of posts on those day tours coming up soon. And even though I had that super powered Vietnamese caffeine coursing through my veins I was so tired at the end of the night experiencing all that Hanoi threw at me I still slept like a rock.
I’ve always been a fan of Ibis hotels. But when I found out that the Ibis Hua Hin allows cats and dogs into guest rooms I became an even bigger fan!
Toby our blue tabby cat loves to travel too. That’s cause he’s got the wayfaring travel bug. But there are not a lot of hotels that allow pets in Hua Hin. Last I checked there were about 5 in and around Hua Hin. But some pet friendly hotels in Hua Hin are too expensive. And the cheaper ones had some really bad reviews.
However, the Ibis Hua Hin was just right in every aspect. It’s a clean hotel though the standard guest rooms are only 20 square meters. Though their space saving furniture design doesn’t make you feel claustrophobic. And the bed is pretty comfortable too. It’s a short 5 minute walk to a beautiful stretch of Hua Hin’s beach. The service from hotel staff is friendly and courteous.
Reasonably Priced Hotel in Hua Hin but Skip the Breakfast
And it only cost me 1400THB per night including taxes, that’s about $40USD at current exchange rates. The downside is they charge 200THB for breakfast. Normally, it’s 250THB but if you pre-pay for breakfast at check in the Ibis gives you a 50THB discount. We stayed for 3 nights so breakfast for my wife and I totaled 1200THB. That’s nearly the price for an extra night.
Now, I wouldn’t mind paying for good food. But the breakfast at this particular Ibis was truly unimpressive and certainly not worth 200THB. It’s a mix of Western and Thai dishes with not a whole lot of variety. We stayed there for 3 nights and the food just got boring. There’s no egg station where you can order up a fresh cooked omelet or scrambled eggs. Many hotels these days even in the 2 star range has an egg station.
Still A Good Value Hotel to Stay if You’re Bringing Your Pet
Okay, so I’m not staying there just for the breakfast. Most important factor we made on deciding to choose Ibis was because it’s pet friendly.
No pets over 10Kg are allowed however. While staying there I saw quite a few guests with pets. All of them had dogs and from what I saw we were the only ones with a cat. Some guests even had 2 dogs. And pets are not allowed in the dining area as well as the swimming pool. And you can’t leave them alone in the room.
But there were several times we had to leave Toby in the room during the day. If you’re a cat owner then you know already cats sleep during the day. So taking him out during that time is like carrying a sack of rice around for nothing.
There’s room under the sink for a litter box, that’s where we put it…
We just waited until room cleaning was done before leaving our little guy to rest in the comforts of an air conditioned room. What a lucky guy!
Ibis is a very pet friendly hotel in Hua Hin…
No pets allowed at the pool…
But guests with pets are allowed to eat breakfast in the lobby area. Though pets are not allowed in the swimming pool area.
Good Location, Reasonable Rates, The Ibis is Okay in My Book!
Ibis Hua Hin provides guest free shuttle service to most areas in central Hua Hin along Phetchkasem Road. The furthest I think the shuttle will take guests is to Hua Hin Night Market. But you have to make reservations ahead of time at reception. I forgot to take a picture of the shuttle but it fits about 9 to 12 people.
You can also walk to the popular Cicada Weekend Night Market, it’s south of the hotel about a 10 minute walk. The hotel shuttle service can take you there as well.
I really like this hotel. Even if I wasn’t traveling with Toby I would still stay at the Ibis Hua Hin. And although their breakfast is bad I can easily overlook that. But I think most people will like this hotel because it’s a clean hotel with friendly service and not a far walk to the beach.
Read current guests reviews and find discounts for Ibis Hua Hin.
How To Get There
It’s super easy to find this hotel. Go down Petchtkasaem Road (Highway #4) heading towards Khao Takiab. It’s the first hotel you’ll see at the entrance of Khao Takiab.
Here’s Where I Share One of My Favorite Neighborhoods in Bangkok for Delicious Food!
One of my favorite neighborhoods in Bangkok is an area called Huai Khwang. It’s not far at all from main tourist areas such as Sukhumvit. Just hop on the MRT subway at Sukhumvit station and in four short stops you’ll hit Huai Khwang MRT station.
I know a lot of people like to stay in this area because it’s close to Sukhumvit via MRT subway plus there are many budget hotels in the area like Hip Hotel, Park Residence, and CMYK that are about 5 5-minute walk to the station.
Even though Bangkok has plenty of restaurants where you can get a noodle or rice dish for a little over $1 USD, Huay Khwang is the place I highly recommend you go for cheap and tasty rice dishes and bowls of noodles with generous portions.
Huai Kwang is Mainly A Residential Area in Bangkok
So what else is so great about Huai Khwang? It’s a food mecca especially for the late-night owls looking for good food or for those that have a bit of extra cash to spend for shopping. There are a lot of very good budget and pricey restaurants in Huai Khwang.
Huai Kwang has long been a popular section of Bangkok for the working class…
But I’ll tell you where you can find some really good Khao Man Gai (chicken and rice) and other popular Thai dishes that are tasty and cheap too!
A simple shop with 4 carts serving popular Thai rice and noodle dishes…
The Restaurant Name Sounds Weird But Trust Me the Food is Good and Cheap!
Okay, so the name of this restaurant I recommend is called สี่จ่า loosely translated as “Four Sergeant”. It’s an open-air restaurant just 30 meters down Soi Pracha Songhkhao 36. It’s very easy to find and locals know this place well. So even if you’re bad with directions you can show them this post and they’ll point you in the right direction.
I’m quite confident that this is the first time this restaurant has been mentioned anywhere else on the blogosphere. It’s not exactly on the tourists’ path. But as I mentioned the locals know this place very well. And when you find Four Sergeants you will be glad you did. And you might as well pat yourself on the back for being a foodie adventurous!
This is the corner of Soi Pracha Songkhao 36 and Huai Kwang. When you see this turn left…
Whenever I feel like I want a quick, cheap, and tasty plate of Khao Man Gai (ข้าวมันไก่) orchicken and rice that’s where I go. Doesn’t matter what time of night it is. Not only are they well known for their succulent chicken and awesome rice, but สี่จ่า is also very popular because of their noodles with sliced duck which my wife loves.
Sliced duck with rice noodles in a rich herb broth…Yong Tau Fu in a sweet and sour chicken broth with fish balls, fish cake and cuttle fish…
But I like their Yong Tau Fu which is an assortment of fish balls, fish cake, a fish dumpling, and cuttlefish bits. I typically choose either the flat rice noodles or egg noodles depending on my mood. With the noodle dishes, you can choose 4 types: egg noodles, broad flat rice noodles, thin rice noodles, and glass rice noodles.
A variety of noodles with soup to choose from…You can pick from 4 types of noodles…A selection of rice dishes…
Not Exactly Char Siu but it’s Still All Good
I also enjoy their Khao Moo Daeng (ข้าวหมูแดง), rice with red pork. It’s not the Char Siu or red roasted pork I love so much and can find in typical Chinese restaurants. Even the restaurants in Bangkok’s Chinatown don’t make the Char Siu which is a total bummer.
Thai-style red pork is different than the traditional Char Siu done in Hong Kong style. It’s gently grilled so you can barely see any grill marks. Thai red pork is also not marinated or covered in honey and other spices while on the grill. To me, Thai red pork is a bit dry because they use leaner cuts of pork. However, whenever you order a plate of Khao Moo Daeng the plate is liberally doused with brown gravy.
As a guy who grew up on typical Hong Kong-style roast pork, it was a bit odd for me. But, the sauce grew on me. And Four Sergeants makes one damn good gravy.
Khao Moo Deng – Rice with red pork, another popular rice dish in Thailand…
The Best Khao Man Gai You’ll Find in Bangkok in My Book
Khao Man Gai hawker stands are all over Thailand. In Bangkok, chicken and rice shops are as ubiquitous as pizza shops in NYC. And if you poll a group of Bangkokians on which shop has the best chicken and rice you’ll get pulled in all different directions with no clear winner.
To me, Four Sergeants has the best Khao Man Gai. Their slices of chicken are tender and moist. The rice is of good quality and not heavily soaked in artery-clogging chicken fat. Too many places emphasize greasy oily rice. Four Sergeants makes their rice just right, a perfect combination with their succulent chicken.
All rice dishes come with a small bowl of chicken soup. There’s some MSG in it but not so much that your lips will be smacking for some water.
The classic Khao Man Gai, chicken and rice…
What does it All Cost?
Everything you find at Four Sergeants costs about 40THB or around $1.20 USD. A small bottle of water costs 10THB and they do sell bottled soda and beers. There is a 7-Eleven right next to the restaurant and the staff don’t care if you buy drinks from there and have them on their tables.
Duck simmered in an herbal broth…Tender chickens waiting to be sliced up…
Their food is not expensive at all. I often order a rice dish followed by a bowl of noodles. One time after a late night of drinking I remember putting down 4 plates of Khao Man Gai.
Four Sergeants closes late, around 4am. But they open around 6pm daily. So they get quite packed as the night gets later because local Thais living in the area often finish work late.
Customers just find a table with an open seat and sit down…
There’s a food court atmosphere at Four Sergeants restaurant. Just pick a seat at an empty table. They do have menus but not a lot. Just say “Kor Doo Menoo Noy” ขอดูเมนู that’s how you ask for a menu in Thai. The menu has photos so you can just point and pick.
This is one of the few restaurants I frequent often. They don’t have a lot of choices. But they have just the right amount. The atmosphere is great if you want to feel like you’re one with the locals. And the food is consistently good.
FourSergeants has been around in the same location for at least a decade. And they’ve got a strong following of locals. Today, Huai Kwang is rapidly changing. Every time I’m there, I’ll often hear Cantonese or Mandarin spoken at a nearby table. And that’s why the menu has Chinese written on it.
There are many cheap Thai restaurants in the Huai Kwang area, even the seafood restaurants where you can find fresh sea snails, giant grilled prawns, fresh grilled fish, and crabs all for a reasonable price.
However, the cheapest meals are of course the single rice dishes and bowls of noodles, such as the ones found in Four Sergeants.
How to Get There
Four Sergeants isn’t widely shared on inter web. But it’s practically an institution in Bangkok. Four Sergeants has been in the same location for nearly a decade.
Huai Kwang Night Market, keep walking down and you’ll find Soi Pracha Songkhao 36…
It’s not difficult to walk there at all. If you’re coming from the Huai Kwang MRT subway station use Exit #3.
Make your way to Huai Kwang Market and when you reach the first intersection which is Soi Pracha Songkhao 36 make a left. It’ll be about a 10 minute walk.
Hope you find this place. The food is good and I’m sure the experience of finding this restaurant will be fun. And be sure to check out the Huai Khwang night market while you’re there, open from 8pm to 2am!
So I have here a Google map that can help you out a bit. I placed a star on the restaurant’s location:
After my wife spent 5 days at her university campus in order to fulfill her course requirements she met a friend who works at the Amari Vogue Krabi Hotel. She told us it’s a really nice 4 star hotel located on Tub Kaek beach.
At the time we were planning on heading to Kanchanburi instead for a little getaway. But after seeing pictures and reading reviews of the Amari Vogue Krabi I was intrigued. And Tub Kaek beach is well known for beautiful Krabi sunsets.
Amari Vogue Krabi – If you love privacy and seclusion this place will not disappoint…
Our minds were made up in a flash. I booked my flights though Air Asia. Then booked one of Amari Vogue Krabi’s deluxe room at Agoda.com for this review. Our round trip plane tickets cost $250USD. Our 3 nights stay at the Amari Vogue including taxes and breakfast set me back $421USD.
I might’ve overpaid for the plane tickets because I bought them with only a week left before departure. However, the Amari Vogue Krabi was a deal. Due to low season I paid $140 per night (including some member point discounts via Agoda).
A view of the hotel property while waiting to get checked in…
Small Hotel, Big Beach, Super Friendly Hotel Staff and a Big Surprise
When we arrived at hotel’s open air reception area we felt a nice ocean breeze. The air was so clean. We could hardly see any guests out and about. This property has only 57 rooms so it’s a small hotel and just right if you don’t want to be shoulder to shoulder with huge tour group guests. But there are plenty of friendly hotel staff all around to take care of your needs.
We were checked in by a lovely lady who led us to our room which was down a series of steps. About midway down the length of the hotel property we finally reached our room.
It’s not a far walk and I was psyched to see if we would get a deluxe room with a view of the beach. She then led us through the hotel’s spa and up a flight of stairs to room #3201.
We got upgraded to a Spa Suite!
When she opened the door to our room my wife and I were impressed. It was all wood furniture all done up in traditional Thai style. A huge four poster bed with mosquito nets.
And the mattress and pillows were so comfortable. The balcony had a view of the ocean. However there were a row of tall coconut trees in front. But we were not complaining.
Then she opened another set of doors that revealed a room with two massage beds connected to the bathroom. Complete with a jacuzzi bathtub and a shower/steam room. Doing a quick check up online these spa suites are 70 to 80 square meters.
Now I know I definitely booked a deluxe room that didn’t have all the bells and whistles and are only 50 square meters. So, we got upgraded! But the lady who showed us our rooms never mentioned it. But we were grateful and I’m sorry I didn’t get a chance to remember her name.
You’re probably thinking just because we got a sweet room upgrade this is going to be an automatic favorable review. Well I’ve have had room upgrades yet still have had bad experiences. Just take a look at my stay in Pa Prai Villa Plantation review. You can always rely on me for honest hotel reviews.
There are also many small swimming pools and even a private one near the beach. Now I wasn’t planning on using the pool. But I did plan on using the fitness room. And it was a small room and it felt like they just stuck late 90’s equipment inside an office space. I know the Amari Vogue Krabi is a smaller property and they can’t just build a big gym. So it’s not a big deal. But I think they can do better.
Besides, my and wife got a pretty good workout hiking up a national park just 200 meters from the entrance of the Amari Vogue Krabi. Unfortunately we only made it up about three quarters of the way. We weren’t prepared because there were lots of rocks and we were wearing flip flops.
Since it rained in the morning the rocks and soil were slick. We had to make the decision to go back or risk spraining an ankle and that would be bad.
The trail was 3.7 kilometers long and supposedly there is a great view up on top. We went around 9am after breakfast and the weather was cool with the tall trees providing adequate shade. But I can imagine it being too hot if we went for the hike in the afternoon. So it’s best to do the hike early in the morning.
Speaking of breakfast I think the Amari Vogue Krabi has just the right amount of choices. Since they’re not a huge hotel they don’t have a huge spread. Though what they have is certainly enough. Breakfast starts from 6:30am and ends at 10:30am.
They have some Thai and Japanese choices. Even Chinese dim sum. And of course there’s the American breakfast option of eggs cooked to order and bacon. They even had pork sausages which is the first I’ve seen in a hotel, though they don’t have it every morning.
A good hearty breakfast in my book…
But you can see the Amari Vogue is keeping up to date on todays health issues. This is the first resort I’ve ever seen carrying gluten free breads and cereals. They even have fruit smoothies and an herbal ginger drink for detox. And they make their own fruit jam. It’s those little details that impress me a lot.
Tub Kaek Beach – The Perfect Spot to Watch the Sunset in Krabi
Having a beautiful beach is just one part of the equation to a resort’s success. And Tub Kaek is the beach front that makes the Amari Vogue so much more impressive. It’s a long beach and the Amari is the last resort on the north end of Tub Kaek beach so it’s a lot more secluded.
There are beach front hotels in the vicinity. But luckily no noisy bars and clubs. So if you want peace and quiet you’ll get it here.
A view of Amari Vogue Krabi from Tub Kaek beach…
Though from what we were told the waters of Tub Kaek are much more beautiful during high season. During our stay it was low season. The waters were a little bit rough with the tide going in and out so the waters were not as clear as it could be during our stay.
But if you want to swim in clear water, Hong Island (a review coming soon) is not far away. You just have to hire a long tail boat to take you out there.
Tub Kaek Beach – Not a lot of people so you feel you have the whole beach to yourself…
That said, my wife and I still enjoyed our walks and dips in the waters. It’s best to swim in the mornings when the tide is higher.
But the beach is perfect for a romantic walk when the tide is low and you can see thousands of baby crabs scuttling towards the waters or digging themselves a hiding spot under the sand.
Now the drawback to staying at a hotel that is private and secluded is you’re going to be far away from the usual tourist destinations. Though many, including me, would consider that a pleasant drawback.
Amari Vogue mini bus has enough room for around 10 to 12 passengers…
However, if you’re the type that likes short jaunts into town the nearest one is called Ao Nang. Bars, restaurants, cafes, Thai massage shops, tour companies and ATM machines can all be found along Ao Nang.
Many massage shops in Ao Nang charging roughly the same rates. Foot massages cost about 200THB for 1 hour…
And Ao Nang Beach is not so bad considering all the commercial businesses nearby. The town is sort of U shaped, not so big and very easy to navigate and walk around.
Ao Nang Town – You can get there via Amari Vogue’s shuttle service. But it’ll cost each passenger 100THB one way.
Ao Nang town is about 20 minutes away by car. But if you didn’t rent a car or a motorbike the Amari Vogue has a shuttle mini bus service 3 times a day going to Ao Nang and back.
Though, they charge 100THB per passenger per way. Now to me, that’s a bit pricey. Personally I think it should be free or maybe half the price because it’s not that far of a drive.
Ao Nang Beach in Krabi
Getting to Amari Vogue Krabi Hotel from Krabi International Airport
Just like in Phuket if you take a taxi from the airport to your hotel you’re going to pay higher than normal taxi prices throughout the Kingdom of Thailand. There are no metered taxis in Krabi. You pay a flat rate and the prices increases depending on the distance.
You can find a few taxi operators inside Krabi International Airport…
Now the Amari Vogue Krabi is one of the furthest resorts from Krabi International Airport. We hired a taxi from the airport and the cost was 800THB and the journey took 40 minutes.
About halfway on to the resort our driver stopped outside of a tour agency. He does this out of the blue and if you ask he’ll tell you he’s going to the toilet.
Once your driver is in the office a guy comes out and tries to sell you some tours. This is business as usual and quite comical. Just say no and they leave. It’s the same in Phuket.
For your return trip from Amari Vogue back to Krabi International just speak with the same driver and they’ll charge the same 800THB rate. Which is what we did. Because the Amari charges 1200THB for the same ride.
I honestly don’t know if there is a cheaper way to get to Amari Vogue Krabi. Not unless you rent your own car and stay there longer. I suppose you can catch a mini bus or a songthaew down to Ao Nang and from there get a taxi. But I have a feeling you won’t be saving that much money.
But I’m a New Yorker. And I’m used to paying $45USD from lower Manhattan down to JFK airport. So to me, 800THB which is around $25USD (based on current exchange rate) for the same distance is a price I can handle.
If you’re staying at the Amari Vogue Krabi, be sure to ask what time the sun sets. You don’t want to miss it. It’s beautiful…
The Amari Vogue Krabi is a wonderful hotel and just perfect if you want a romantic getaway with a wonderful and natural surrounding. But a beautiful resort in a wonderful natural surrounding means nothing if you’ve got bad hotel staff.
One of this hotel’s strong points is the friendly and well trained staff. Every Amari staff that we encountered could speak a fair amount of English. Not too many four star hotels can make this claim. This and just many other reasons are why my wife and I would not hesitate to go back to Amari Vogue when we visit Krabi again.
Read current reviews and find discounts for Amari Vogue Krabi click here.
Or Tor Kor Market (ตลาด อ.ต.ก.) – A Durian Aficionado’s Heaven
I’m going to put it out there right now that I’m not a huge fan of Durian, the so called “King” of all fruits. I’ll eat it a little of it just to satisfy my wife’s fruitless attempts to convert me to a durian lover. I don’t go bananas over it like most durian fanatics do. You’re probably wondering why you should go on reading this?
Because I know there are a lot of people who love this fragrant pungent fruit. So I’ve asked friends, friends of friends and associates where they go for the finest most rank smelling durian in Bangkok, regardless of season.
And the majority tell me they head to Or Tor Gor, a popular farmers market where Thais with cash go to get their durian fix. It won’t be cheap. But if you love durian more than I love a juicy ribeye steak than something tells me you won’t mind spending some cold hard Baht.
Aor Tor Kor Market next to Kamphaeng Phet MRT station exit #3
Or Tor Gor is a popular and easy to reach market that is still off the tourists’ grid even though it’s a measly 200 meters from the southern entrance of Chatuchak Weekend Market. And JJ Mall is about 400 meters away near the western entrance of Chatuchak. So there are quite a few spots to visit in a day if you’re in the area.
#3 Station entrance/exit nearest Aor Tor Gow Market. Notice the no durian allowed sign?
This wet/dry/food market is well known to Thais with cash and can buy the best and freshest fruits year round. But there’s more to this place than high quality fruit including the best durian found in Bangkok. Aor Tor Kor has a food court with a wide variety of familiar Thai favorites and classics such as som tom, grilled giant prawns and many other prepared foods you can take back to your hotel room.
In Thailand, it could be a lot cheaper to buy food and take home than cooking…
But do remember that hotels don’t allow guests to bring in durian. Even BTS and MRT stations have a strict no stinky fruit policy. If they see you carrying a fresh bag of durian they will deny you entrance. And the guards do check, particularly at the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station near the market.
Forget the potato chips and junk food, plenty of healthy nuts can be purchased at Or Tor Gor…
It’s all about the Durian Baby
There are at least 6 or 8 shops that sell durian year round inside the market. However, the best time to indulge and buy with decent prices is around the months of July and August. Although the official season for durian in Thailand runs from late months of April through September.
Durian farmers will tell you quality durian is a fickle fruit to grow and harvest. The weather and time including a host of other factors play a major role on taste and quality. And Or Tor Kor market vendors only select the best or have connections with farmers that keep their special stock because they know they can sell their higher quality durian at a higher than normal market rate price.
Normally at Or Tor Kor When the Fruit is in Season You Can Find Two Popular Varieties of Durian:
Monthong and Kanyao durian varieties are very popular now…
1. Monthong (หมอนทอง)
In Thai this variety of durian is translated as “Golden Pillow” because it’s quite big and fluffy. The outer husk is huge with spikes so big you can use it to do some serious damage when used in a bar fight. The Monthong name is known as the largest producer of durian with many of its prized fruits coming from prime farming real estate south of Thailand close to Malaysia. Which is another Southeast Asian nation famous for its durian production.
2. Kanyao (ก้านยาว)
Kanyao is a smaller variety of durian with smaller spikes but you’d still better be cautious when handling it. Its name translates to “Long Stem” in Thai though by the time it reaches the vendors in Or Tor Kor the stem is trimmed down for easier handling. Though you will see many vendors leave the stems on just for show and decoration.
If you stick a gun to my head and forced me to choose one of the two kinds of durian I would prefer Kanyao. It’s sweeter, kind of like pineapple but without the sour acidic taste. Some would say it taste like super ripe mangosteen. But even then I still limit myself a small piece just to appease my wonderful wife.
Vendors won’t hesitate to give prospecting customers a taste of their durian. So don’t hesitate to ask for a piece they are very willing to oblige.
As of writing, a durian vendor that we always go to charged 240THB for 80 grams, about 3 pieces of Kanyao durian. I can’t remember off hand how much the Monthong variety cost but I believe it was a bit more expensive because the pieces were larger. Prices fluctuate due to availability and season. Off season you can expect to pay 25% to 40% higher.
Wife buying some Kanyao durian. You can see the long stemmed durian in the background…
Or Tor Kor is open everyday from around 6am to 7pm. Though some shops close earlier. It all depends how much stock they have left. They carry a lot of seasonal items that normally don’t grow in Thailand such as cherry or strawberries from the USA to prized and super expensive cantaloupe imported from Japan and Korea.
Or Tor Gor vendors take great care in cleaning and presenting their goods to customers…
Ever buy a bag of mangosteens and rambutan and find it with a nest of ants? Or Tor Gor vendors know their customers have discerning taste. So not only do they carry fruits from the finest farms they also pretty it up and by that I mean they try to get rid of pests that could cause an insect infestation at a customers’ home.
If you’re reading this and it’s still July then this is the prime time to stuff your gut on durian in Bangkok, and Or Tor Kor is the best place to buy it. You can also find high quality durian at the Emporium Supermarket inside Siam Paragon Mall, but they charge much more. Also, while at Or Tor Kor, don’t forget to check out their rockin’ food court!
