And a Review of Philippine Airlines Flight 733 From Bangkok to Manila to JFK
Have you ever wondered whether Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) is safe or not? How about what it’s like to fly Philippine Airlines from Bangkok to JFK with a 16-hour layover inside Manila airport?
Because for me, it’s that time of year again where I have to leave Thailand and head home to New York City for a month and a half.
I typically fly to South Korea with a short stay in Seoul. Last year I stopped over in Taipei, Taiwan. But I was looking for a change. So I picked Manila.
My original plan was to visit Manila for a few days. Because I’ve never been to the Philippines. But I had to change plans and head back to New York sooner. And I wanted to rest a little while longer before taking the longer 16-hour flight from Manila to NYC.
So I picked an itinerary with a 16-hour layover which I decided to stay the entire time inside NAIA. What can I say? I’m just trying to get out of my little own comfort bubble.
I Gotta Admit, I Was Nervous…
Typically I don’t do any research whenever I go anywhere new. I’m just a glutton for punishment. However, this is a unique case. Aside from that bullet planting scam inside the airport, NAIA was consistently on the list as one of the worst airports in Asia.
Though it’s off the list today due to active improvements through Philippine President’s Duterte’s no nonsense crackdown on crime. He even threatened to have the air force take control of NAIA if security doesn’t improve.
About six years ago while I was on a Korean Air flight from JFK to Bangkok, with a transfer flight in Seoul, a Filipino passenger sitting next to me told me he would never fly to Manila airport. Even though he was going to Cebu, Philippines. He didn’t go into too many details about it. But he just said it wasn’t safe and left it at that.
As you can see there’s a good reason why I should do some research on this trip. I even asked friends familiar with flying to Manila Airport for some advice. I also looked at other travel bloggers and travel websites like TripAdvisor regarding NAIA.
But I found that a lot of information I picked out, in the beginning, didn’t jive with what I was about to experience.
Even in economy there’s a lot of leg space on Philippine Airline’s A320
My First Leg of the Trip – PAL Flight 733 BKK to MNL
My Philippine Airlines flight 733 from Bangkok to Manila departed at 11 pm. The aircraft model is Airbus A320. As usual, I went to the airport earlier to check in so I could snag a seat by the emergency exit row for extra leg room. I call this the poor man’s first class seat.
Although inside the plane I noticed all the seats in economy had decent leg room. There’s a 3 by 3 seating configuration and according to seatguru.com, PAL Airbus A320 economy seats have a 29-30 seat pitch with a seat width of 19.7 inches. That’s pretty good for economy.
Flight time was 3 hours and the time flew by quick. I spent most of my time sleeping and even skipping meal service.
There wasn’t a good deal of inflight entertainment options because there’s an overhead display with only one movie showing.
The PAL aircrew was very polite. Just wanted to add that. Before I knew it, I arrived at Manila’s NAIA for the very first time.
Landing at Manila’s NAIA – Terminal 2
The flight arrived into NAIA around 3am. I was tired, but alert.
NAIA has 4 terminals but supposedly, Terminal 2 is specifically designated for Philippines Airline I read somewhere. I shall soon learn it’s not.
I followed the signs to the transfer desk and was told by Philippine Airline staff that I had to exit terminal 2 . Because my connecting flight is at terminal 1.
And because I had 16 hours until my MNL to JFK departs the friendly staff suggested I head out of the airport. I guess I could. But by this point, it was 3:30 am in the morning.
What could I possibly do that early in Manila?
At first thought, it was kind of weird to clear immigration if one is planning to stay completely inside the airport.
But NAIA is not one complete building you see. The airport is spread out so you have to take a taxi or an airport shuttle bus between all four terminals. This is what I dreaded happening because I read about unscrupulous taxi drivers. So, going to avoid that.
Then the staff directed me to use the airport shuttle transfer bus. Which I did.
Remember, As Long As You Have a Boarding Ticket with a Transfer Stamp, Taking the Airport Shuttle Bus is Free
Okay, so outside of Terminal 2 after you clear customs there is a waiting area for the Airport shuttle bus. Technically the shuttle bus was supposed to arrive every 15 minutes. I would love to show you where I found that information but it’s inaccurate.
It does not arrive every 15 minutes. At least not while I was there. But I’ve read elsewhere the bus schedules are very inconsistent already.
I asked a local traveling Filipino and he too said about 15 minutes. But he didn’t seem too confident. Eventually we saw an Airport shuttle bus pass us, and parked further up. He told me it was the airport bus and was just as confused as to why it parked further up, and not taking passengers.
So we waited for another one. About 10 minutes later more people came to wait for the bus. And then a man came out from the airport shuttle bus I saw the first time. He directed everyone to get onboard.
So here’s the fishy part. While the bus was moving the porter came around asking for 150 pesos. He was collecting from other foreign travelers. But didn’t bother the locals.
I didn’t pay. I just looked at him and shrugged. For one thing, I didn’t have any Philippine pesos on hand. The other, I wasn’t even expecting to pay for a fare.
The bus ride from Terminal 2 to Terminal 1 took about 5 minutes. Nowhere have I read I had to pay to ride the airport shuttle bus. Incidentally, I spoke with another American heading to JFK that was on the same bus afterwards.
And the bus conductor told him if he didn’t have pesos he could pay in US dollars. Which in itself is highly unusual. He paid $3USD which is slightly over 150 pesos. Either way, it was fishy.
There’s a lot of space inside the airport terminal transfer shuttle bus.
I noticed that the Philippine native I spoke to earlier while waiting for the bus wasn’t even approached by the bus conductor.
Eventually, I learned, as long as you’ve got a transfer ticket on hand, you do not have to pay for the ride.
Here’s my proof. I stepped off the bus in front of Terminal 1 and the conductor just gave me a shy sheepish look. Like he got busted.
At NAIA Terminal 1
One thing that is certainly true about NAIA’s terminal 1 airline check-in counter is that the lines are long. I wish I took photos. Because there’s a lot of people, especially at 3 am in the morning. There appears to be some kind of order along the long lines of people queuing up to the counters.
Luckily, I already had my MNL to JFK boarding ticket printed at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok. So I can avoid the lines and make a beeline for passport control.
Here’s An Odd Story at Passport Control…
My wife’s friend is a native Filipino and I had previously asked her if she had any tips about Manila’s airports. One thing she said was don’t let immigration officers intimidate me. Sounds like an ominous prediction.
When I heard that my first thought was what’s the worst that they can do? And left it at that.
When I handed my passport to the immigration officer I noticed a very nonchalant attitude.
Then the questions started, “Are you of Filipino blood?”
I answered no.
“Have you ever been to the Philippines?”
No.
Then he spent a few minutes examining and looking through my passport. I have to admit. This was getting rather annoying.
I’m sure he can tell from his computer system and the fresh entry stamp that I arrived an hour ago. And my boarding ticket says I’m transferring.
Then he asked one last question, “Where did you fly in from?”
Thailand, I answered.
“Ah.” he says and stamps my passport.
Maybe I’m just being too sensitive. Maybe I was primed to feel the way I did because of my wife’s friend’s advice about not letting immigration officers intimidate me.
I’ve been stamped out by a lot of airports. And I must say, this one’s the weirdest. But I was glad it was over and by now I was so tired.
It was time to search for a dayroom or a lounge or whatever to sleep and shower in.
And I’m inside Terminal 1 – Looking for Dayrooms
On my initial research, I was looking to rent a dayroom I read about from The Wings Transit Lounge but it’s located inside terminal 3 on the fourth floor.
I walked around all over Terminal 1 and did not find any airport chairs I could sleep on. The chairs are made of metal with thin blue cushions. I read somewhere that airport security will fine passengers for sleeping on the chairs.
I really don’t know if there’s any truth to that. I’m not even going to think about trying. After possibly getting shakin’ down by that shuttle bus conductor, I didn’t want to take any chances.
Found a Dayroom – But is it Any Good?
At NAIA there are many airport lounges where you can pay to use and enjoy. But I was specifically looking for a bed. And most importantly a place to shower.
NAIA terminal 1 dayroom rates are 1680 PHP for 24 hours, about $33 USD so not too expensive.
Well, I found it. There are no direct signs leading to the dayroom rental. Follow my directions though and you’ll find it.
Look for the signs leading to gates 9, 10, 11, 12, 14 and 15. It’s right next to a Starbucks. You will see a sign and a pair of elevators leading to the 4th floor where the dayroom rentals are located.
Price for room rentals are clearly stated
Cost of Dayrooms
For 1680 Philippine pesos, per head, you’ll get 24-hour access. Which is reasonable. Especially when I’ve got 14 hours to go so I can catch some sleep and a shower. By the way, there’s no wifi access inside the dayroom area. I know, a real bummer.
They only accept cash payments so you’ll have to exchange your local currency. There are two currency exchange counters near the duty-free shops.
There are single rooms with one twin bed. Also a couple of larger rooms with two twin beds.
You get a door key to your room. There’s no safety box inside to store your valuables so a good idea to have a good lock for your luggage or travel bags.
There are only nine rooms available and a receptionist sitting near the guest rooms.
This was the room I stayed in. Outside the window is the tarmac. Which isn’t exactly a good thing.
Single rooms are small but I’m only in here for a small stretch of time. You’ve got a small kit of towels, toothbrush with toothpaste, disposable slippers, soap and a packet of shampoo.
I got room #9 which faces the airport tarmac. I checked in about 5 am. As the morning rolled in I could hear airplanes taking off. I looked outside and didn’t see any nearby airplanes. That’s just how loud airplane engines are so the jet engine noise travels far. It was noisy to the point even the windows inside my room vibrated.
This happens about once every ten or fifteen minutes. It took a while but I did manage to catch some much-needed sleep.
That is until I started hearing staff talking near the reception desk. Also, a dayroom guest complaining about being charged an extra hour he overstayed. And ringing office phones.
The walls and doors at this place are very thin. I could even hear a guy in another room snoring.
As bad as I’m making it all sound I did manage to grab some sleep. And you might be able too.
There are two toilet stalls, a urinal, and a shower room
The best thing of all though at least there’s access to clean bathrooms with a shower room. There’s only one shower room and it’s not in the greatest shape. The ceiling is low and the shower head could use a good screw tightening.
Toilets were clean though. At my age that’s important.
For all the ladies you’d be happy to know there is a separate bathroom facility.
Checked Out and Ready to Leave for JFK
Boarding time for my flight to JFK was 7 pm. I checked out of the dayroom at 2 pm. I still had plenty of time. I wasn’t sleepy at this point and with the afternoon time, it seemed the frequency of planes preparing to take off increased.
Spending a few more hours inside a room with the sound of jet engines roaring past me is not fun.
So I decided to check out of the dayroom. And wait for 7 pm at the Starbucks next to the entrance at the dayroom. There were plenty of soft seats and a good place to waste some time there.
The free airport wifi access is very good inside terminal 1. I read reports somewhere else that it was really spotty. But while I was there for all those hours it worked really well.
Only takes a little while to log in. But when you’re on the speed was good. I could watch Youtube videos and surf with no lag.
I connected with the wifi access from Google. I tried the airports official wifi network but that one wasn’t working. For Google wifi, you get 30 minutes of access. When the 30 minutes are up you can just log back in again.
There are also mobile phone charging ports located near gate 9. It’s set up a little weird. There’s a bunch of chairs surrounding 3 narrow kiosks fitted with USB and electrical outlets.
There were more power ports than seats. But it’s better than nothing. And my flight was departing on gate 10 so that’s where I hung out to pass the rest of the time.
The air conditioning in this part of terminal 1 was really cold so bring a jacket. I was wearing shorts so it was extra chilly for me.
$100USD Extra for Emergency Exit Row Seats??
Here’s a shocker to me. At BKK airport I requested a seat on the emergency exit row aisle seat. Because I really, really enjoy that extra leg room. And I got it. Free of charge which is normal when I make the same request on airlines.
At Manila Airport I asked for the same. Only to hear it cost $100 USD extra to get those seats. I was surprised. Though I have heard airlines today are getting wiser. But why was I not charged for an emergency exit row seat for my BKK to MNL leg of the trip? It’s still an international flight after all.
I just stayed with the aisle seat I pre-booked.
Inside Flight PR 126
This was a Philippine Airline Airbus A350. I have to say, this is a very nice airplane. The seat was comfortable. The first time my ass hit the chair I was could tell a difference between the comfortability of these cheap seats compared to other economy seats on other airlines.
But, after 16 hours your butts still going to be a little sore. At least mine was.
Before the plane even took off I started to drift to sleep. Until I took a look at the in-flight movie selection. There were a bunch of movies available that I haven’t watched yet.
I watched Ready Player One, Pacific Rim 2, Bohemian Rhapsody, and Equalizer 2. The in-flight entertainment touch screen was awesome. The resolution was sharp and clear.
There is a USB charge port but no power outlet for laptop computers. There’s also free 5mb wifi internet access but it didn’t work while I was in this flight.
In-Flight Meal
You’ve got your Western option. And you’ve got your Asian option. I opted for the Pork Belly Singuba. I’ve never, ever tried Filipino food before. Never thought my first time would be on an airplane. I liked it.
At the next meal service, I ate the Chicken Bulgogi and Chap Chae. Not exactly Filipino, but hey, the meal was alright too.
Notice the extra bread roll? Yeah, I’m a big eater
I skipped breakfast which was served about 3 or 4 hours before landing. I was really tempted to try Bangus Lamayo. Which would be my second Filipino meal ever. But I didn’t feel hungry at all.
End of Journey
I have to say my first time flying with Philippine Airlines was a pleasant one. I should emphasize that the flight attendants were very nice and polite. The 16-hour flight didn’t even feel like a 16-hour flight.
The wide variety of choice in-flight movies was partly responsible for time going by so fast.
Lucky I’m flying back to Bangkok in the next month and a half with Philippine Airlines again. That’s how much I’m impressed with them. And if I time it right I could stay in Manila for 3 days or so.
I’ve never been to China before. So my first ever trip to Guangzhou (广州市), China is a milestone for me. If this will be your first trip to Guangzhou too I’m going to show you what you can expect through my experiences. From traveling to Guangzhou Baiyun international airport to Guangzhou’s city center at night and eating.
So the city of Guangzhou is 119 mile from Hong Kong in Southern China. It’s a city known for mass producing most of the products you’re wearing and using at this very moment. Which is why my wife and I was also going to the 124th Canton Fair for business. Nonetheless, I was super excited for my first ever visit to Guangzhou, China.
And it’ll be a special trip. Because my parents were originally from Guangzhou before immigrating to the USA.
As an American and even for Thais in my wife’s case we first had to get a China visa. Which depending on which blog you read could be easy. Or it could rather difficult. Luckily while we were applying for our Chinese visa in Bangkok we didn’t have any issues at all.
The Great (Fire) Wall of China
As a digital nomad, China’s great firewall could really hamper one’s efforts to share or write about their experiences in China on location. In China, if you plan on taking selfies plus food porn and posting them up on Facebook and Instagram you’ll be disappointed.
Only Chinese manufactured social media platforms function in China. This means Line, Instagram and Facebook apps won’t work as all are blocked by the firewall. But WeChat app which is China owned does.
Here’s your options for all you social media addicts
If you’re using your home countries’ mobile service provider with free or affordable international roaming then you’ll be fine. So if you’re from the United States and you’re using a service provider like T-Mobile you can post on your choice of social media inside China freely.
It’s a different story for your computer though because you can’t install SIM cards into one. Instead you’ll need a Virtual Protocol Network(VPN) which essentially disguises your computer’s IP address and fooling the great Firewall. In essence, a VPN makes it look like your computer is not in China.
You can try using installing ExpressVPN on your computer which I heard has good results in China to post photos and experiences on Facebook. Or even watch Netlflix when you’ve got a lot of down time.
Lots of nice photo opportunities in Guangzhou, China
Best Area to Stay in Guangzhou for Your First Visit – Beijing Road
So I did some extensive research for myself on which area I should stay in Guangzhou. I found out Beijing Road location is the best, in terms of convenience for finding transportation, food and walking distance to local attractions.
For instance the hotel or rather the serviced apartment I stayed at is called Nomo Beijing Road A Mall Apartments. It’s located inside a mall so plenty of food options. And the Gongyuanqian 公园前站 train station is underneath the hotel with a shopping arcade. Can’t get any better than that.
Now that you know how to post on social media in China, lets get down to the nitty gritty of visiting Guangzhou for your first time.
Starting with how to get from Baiyun international Airport to the city at night.
Getting from Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport to the City after Midnight
I arrived into Baiyun airport a little after 11pm. Which left me with not a lot of choices for getting to the city. Actually I was only left with one choice which is metered taxi.
The line in passport control was long but it moved fairly quickly
We landed a little after 11pm. After getting through passport control and retrieving my luggage we were out of the airport by midnight. Luckily, metered taxis waiting outside of Baiyun airport are a plenty. While I was there there were lines of taxis waiting for tired passengers eager to get to their hotel rooms for shut eye.
Are Taxis from Airports in Guangzhou Reliable?
The official airport metered taxi line at Baiyun airport
I stayed in Guangzhou for about 6 days. Throughout those six days I’ve used taxis at least once a day. Every driver turned on their meter. No one tried to force a flat rate on me. And through google maps I followed the routes to my destination. None of the taxis made serious route deviations to run up the meter.
Though I should also add that Google maps is not that reliable in Guangzhou. I’ll get into that later though.
From my experience, Guangzhou taxi drivers are reliable. Except that one taxi driver that was drifting asleep during stop signals. And when he’d wake up, he’d start singing. What a great way to stay awake.
Metered taxi fare from Guangzhou Baiyun airport to the Nomo Beijing Road A Mall Apartments, the hotel I was staying at cost me 145¥, including the 15¥ tollway. About $20USD for a 30 minute trip. It’s not as expensive as my home city of New York. Though not as cheap as Bangkok, Thailand.
Not complaining though as the ride was convenient and hassle free. Especially in the middle of the night where transportation options are limited.
I already read elsewhere that metered taxi rides to Guangzhou from the airport cost roughly 120¥ so it’s on par with my experience.
I can’t remember specifically where the metered taxi line is at Baiyun airport but there are many signs in English pointing the way. Like most airports around the world you’ll get approached by taxi touts while making way to the official airport taxi stand.
Taxis in Guangzhou run 24 hours. You’ll find less past midnight but I wouldn’t worry. On our return flight to Bangkok we had to check out of our hotel 1am in the morning. And we did’t wait long to find a taxi.
Other than taxis, traveling around Guangzhou is super easy, especially on foot.
Getting Around Guangzhou
Guangzhou, just like Seoul, Taipei and Osaka is a real joy to explore on foot. The sidewalks are flat and spacious. The vehicles obey traffic lights. There are many street signs in English and finding the places we wanted to go to was easy.
Beijing Road is the main avenue in the city of Guangzhou. If you get lost, just find Beijing Road to reorient yourself and find where you need to go.
Only problem is if you’re using Google or Apple maps for directions you’ll see it’s a total gamble. Meaning the directions you find on it may not lead you to your destination.
This happened to me on numerous occasions.
This is the mall my hotel was located in…
I was looking for a Citibank and even on the Citibank app via Google or Apple maps I still couldn’t locate the branch.
Another example, according to Google maps the hotel I was staying at was actually 465 meters off from the actual location. Luckily the taxi driver knew the exact location of the hotel we were staying in.
Nearly 475 meters off from the actual location is quite a big difference
Then on Trip Advisor I was trying to find this Szechuan restaurant for an hour following Google maps. Only to discover that I’m not at the right location. From hindsight, what I will do the next time I’m back in Guangzhou is to call the places to check 1) if they’re still there and 2) where the exact location is.
Guangzhou metro subway train fares are cheap. And so efficient with frequent train arrivals. It simply is one of the best ways to get around the city. I used it to get from my hotel to the station near Canton Fair which is about 7 miles away. The train fare was only .70 cents or 5¥.
Subsequent times I’ve used the trains I’ve never spent more than 5¥ per train ride. The ticket machines are in English with plenty of English signs and maps leading the way. Station stops are also announced in English.
A Few Places We Visited on Foot
Like I mentioned already, Google maps is unreliable in Guangzhou for finding most businesses. However, it’s reliable for finding long established city attractions. And I visited them easily on foot.
Chen Clan Ancestral Hall
For the short week we were in Guangzhou we went to Chen Clan Ancestral Hall located in the center of the city. My last name is Chan. But it’s the same as Chen when written in Chinese 陳 so in a way, I’m visiting my roots and paying homage to my ancestors
The Chen Clan Ancestral Hall also houses old and new artwork. With many antiques spread throughout the compound. You can easily visit all of the exhibits in about 30 or 40 minutes. It was nice to sit outside in the huge open courtyard and just think about what what life was like in the past. Certainly worth dropping by especially if you’ve got the Chen name.
There is an entrance fee of 10¥ and you have to show your passport. Normally I don’t bother carrying my passport around for fear of losing it. But in China, best to have it with when you’re out and about.
Temple of the Six Banyan Tree
This attraction is actually a lot closer to where we were staying. There’s a tall pagoda called Temple of the Six Banyan Tree. There’s a lot of history in this area which I won’t go into on this post. But you can find plenty of info about it here.
Also not a big huge attraction but cool place to pop in and take a look. Entrance fee to the main temple grounds is 5¥ and you can go up the pagoda for an extra fee of 10¥. Which I would’ve done if I knew we could go inside and up to the top.
Overall walking around and exploring the city of Guangzhou was pleasant. We here in early November and the weather was cool and crisp.
I would’ve explored more of Guangzhou but I was here mostly to check out the 124th Canton Fair for business. So I spent some days checking factories and so on. And still a lot of walking.
All this walking of course is going to build up an appetite. It’s time to eat! And in Guangzhou, there’s no shortage of good food.
Only thing is, we gotta find a restaurant with English menus!
Eating Out in Guangzhou
You’re not going to have a problem finding good food in Guangzhou. You are however, going to have a hard time finding a restaurant with English menus. Although I can speak Cantonese, I cannot read or write it.
Though the ability to speak Cantonese helps somewhat. But most locals in Guangzhou speak Mandarin. Which I cannot understand. Yet they can understand my Cantonese.
Very good pizza at Pizza Factory located inside the A Mall…
So I’m bit of an oddball whenever I’m talking and interacting with the locals. My point is, if you want to eat inside local restaurants there will be a language barrier. I guess you can always point at the actual food or photos of food which helps.
For anyone that doesn’t want to deal with the language barrier in Guangzhou there are plenty of McDonald’s, KFC, Pizza Huts, Starbucks and many more international fast food chains.
But if you’re in Guangzhou you must have dim sum!
Dim Sum in Guangzhou, China
In Guangzhou, I recommend having some good old Cantonese dim sum for breakfast. Though you can have it as brunch or even for late lunch because most dim sum restaurants close around 10pm.
Though I usually eat dim sum for breakfast because that’s just the way I had it growing up in New York’s Chinatown. We call it “yum cha” which means “drink tea” which is an essential part of the dim sum experience.
Now you’re definitely going to come across the language barrier issue at a dim sum restaurant in Guangzhou. There’s only one restaurant that I know with English menus. But the menu has numerous spelling errors and translations. Don’t get discouraged.
Remember, a hungry tummy will always find a way.
The dim sum restaurant in Guangzhou with English menus is called Dim Sum Chef. It’s a restaurant chain but I can’t find any links to a website. But I found out about it because the hotel I was staying at has a mall called A Mall connected right to it on the 4th floor.
Another good dim sum option in Guangzhou that is also a chain is:
Dian Dou De 点都德 address: Beijing Road branch – 470 Hui Fu Dong Lu, Yuexiu district. There’s one more which is the main branch at: 587 Long Jin Zhong Lu, Liwan district
How to Order Dim Sum
The dim sum restaurants I went to in Guangzhou, every table gets a menu order form. But it’s in Chinese. I could speak Cantonese and relay to the servers that I can’t read Chinese. So I just mouth off the types of dim sum I normally order back in NYC.
And the waiters were friendly enough to help write in my order.
So, if you’re able to read Chinese you just check off which items you’d like to order…
But I also used WeChat to communicate with friends that can read Chinese. I just snapped a photo of the menu and asked my friend to translate for me. So if you know someone who can read and write Chinese this is one way you can order.
Otherwise, I recommend sitting next to a table with customers with lots and lots of dim sum on their tables. Then start pointing out to the servers what you want. Who knows, you’ll probably make friends with the folks sitting next to you too.
Tea Etiquette at Guangzhou Dim Sum Restaurants
Take a look at Luke Martin’s video below inside one of Dian Dou De’s branch. Where you’ll get an idea on what’s it like to enjoy a dim sum meal in Guangzhou. As well the process of tea preparation.
Also notice there’s a bowl and a plate. You eat from the bowl. The plate is there to put things like bones or discarded pieces of food. Don’t ask me why. I mean why do most fancy restaurants have like 3 different forks for different meal servings?
So these are the only two dim sum joints I’ve been to but I plan to check out others after checking out this blogger’s post on where to eat dim sum in Guangzhou.
But really your food options will be endless in Guangzhou. You’ll find something you’ll like, I’m sure of it.
Getting a Massage in Guangzhou
With old age quickly settling in on my bones after all the walking around in Guangzhou I searched out a massage place in the city via Google maps. I know I said it’s a gamble. But, I took a gamble. And my gamble paid off.
I followed Google map’s navigation all the way to Dongxing Blindman Massage Parlor. It was about a 15 minute walk from my hotel location. It turned out it was easy find.
Dongxing is not a fancy shop. It’s a local shop with neighborhood customers. Not a lot of tourists walk in those doors. And they can only speak Mandarin. Luckily they could understand my Cantonese.
While my wife and I went in, there was only one blind masseuse and a few others that could see. So not everyone inside is blind. I’m going to warn you, it’s going to be painful. Because they are trained to use their hands to locate points on your body that needs work on. So, they will continually massage and knead until the knots are gone with their super strong grips
Even after a few days later we were still sore. Not sore in a way where you can’t do your daily routines though. Just enough to let you know what they did worked. And we felt great afterwards. We went for the hour long massage which cost 70¥ per person. About $10USD which is a great bargain.
Looking forward to My Next Visit to Guangzhou
My first visit to Guangzhou has me feeling impressed. With most of my time spent on business I didn’t have enough time to scratch the surface of the city.
I wish Google Maps worked more effectively in China. I wish I learned Mandarin. Which I’ll try and pick up seeing as I will be visiting Guangzhou more often in the near future.
It’s a fun city to travel to and even with the language barrier you’ll still manage to score a good meal one way or the other. There’s no doubt you’ll have a pretty good experience on your first visit to Guangzhou too.
Applying for a Chinese visa in Bangkok could be smooth sailing. Or a total nightmare. That’s depending on where you’re getting your information from. Because I’m heading to Guangzhou (广州市), China to check out the 124th Canton Fair for business and to eat some dim sum.
Which means I’m going to have to get a China visa for my US passport. So like any average Joe looking for information about applying for a visa to visit China. And I was in Thailand at the time so I did a google search on how to get a Chinese visa in Bangkok.
I started reading blog comments and caught a glimpse of what to expect. And the glimpse I caught frankly caught me off guard.
According to this blogger, regular service takes 4 days. Which is normal and if you’ve done proper travel planning shouldn’t be an issue. But I also read it was possible that it could take a month to get back your passport and a tourist visa to China!
Applying for My First China Visa in Bangkok
In the immortal words of Bart Simpson, “Aye Caramba!” we were hoping it won’t take that long. My wife and I were applying for our Chinese travel visas two weeks before our scheduled flight departs for Guangzhou. And we already paid for our hotel in full with no refunds.
Then, I’ve been reading Mark Wien’s experience when he went to apply for his China tourist visa. His experience was more streamlined and uneventful. But it was the comments from his readers that got me nervous.
Bear in mind that his information and experience was posted in 2014. A lot of things could’ve changed in that time span. Which I found out did.
I read someone’s comment that he had to hand in a color copy of their passport. I always thought it was illegal to make photocopies of passports in color.
There’s just so much information out there about getting a China visa in Bangkok and I didn’t know who or what to believe. There were a mix of helpful information about the process. And there were some info out there to make oneself paranoid about the Chinese visa application process.
So like anything else I knew nothing about, I started with baby steps. First, I started off with something easy. Like check what time the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok opens.
The First Big Change
One thing my years of travel experience had taught me is you go to an embassy or consulate of the country you’re planning to visit to apply for a tourist visa.
So it would make sense that I would have to go to the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok, right?
Wrong!
Currently you cannot apply for a China Visa at the Chinese Embassy in Bangkok. You have to go to the Chinese Visa Application Service Centre in Thailand (CVASC) located inside an office building a few miles away from the Chinese Embassy.
Business hours Monday-Friday, Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays.
Submission of applications: 9:00 to 15:00.
Payment and collection: 9:00 to 16:00.
Good thing I came across this bit of info. Otherwise I would’ve ended up at the front steps of the Chinese Embassy.
With my visa application in hand only to have guards pointing and laughing at me like the idiot I am.
Be Sure to Check Out CVASC Website
Next thing to do is to download the China visa application. And also find out what supporting documents are required for a US citizen staying in Thailand needs. Which I found on CVASC (website) a list of requirements for your specific visa purpose. For tourist the visa category is L.
Again, because I am going to China for business I needed to apply for the M category.
Even though you’re reading this and applying for a China tourist visa, the documents and procedure required which I listed below is 95.9% the same.
Click on that button to find requirements for all visa category
The CVASC website is cool. There is an online form, not a PDF version like the one that I used from China Embassy website. And, you can make an appointment too. Which had I known, I would’ve used the CVASC website exclusively.
You do not need to make an appointment before showing up.
Click on that button and you’ll see an online China visa. You can even make an appointment too
Getting Ready to go to China Visa Application Service Center
I didn’t use the CVASC online visa application form because I found out too late about it. Instead I used the this four page form I downloaded from Chinese Embassy in Thailand’s website.
Since it’s a PDF electronic form you can input your information directly in. And then print out and sign when completed.
Which is great because I’ve got horrible handwriting. There could be a few questions that could trip you up but I’ll highlight those later on. Make sure you put on the caps lock too while typing.
There are China visa application forms at the CVASC you can fill out with an old fashioned pen. But honestly printing out filled out forms beforehand is the smarter move.
Filling Out China Visa Application Form (V.2013)
Make Sure Your Visa Form is Filled Out Accurately
The visa form is straightforward with 5 sections with sub-sections. Chances are you won’t need to fill out all 5 sections in this China visa application.
There are just a few sections that might make you scratch your head though.
Section 1.5 – This section you put in your current occupation. If you don’t see the listed description for yourself then just mark “other” and then write in specifically what you do. For me, I’m a business person so I checked marked that box. But that’s too vague. So the clerk personnel instructed me to check “Other ☑️” and write in specific occupation.
Section 2.7 – This section is basically asking who’s paying for your trip. I just typed in “SELF FUNDED”.
Section 2.6 – Here you get asked about your itinerary. I was just staying the entire week in Guangzhou. I just wrote on one line. For date “30-10-18 TO 05-11-18” and then for detailed address I just wrote in the address of the hotel I was staying at.
Section 2.10 – This ones just an observation from myself. This section asks what other countries you’ve visited in the past 12 months. So I listed the countries I’ve been within 12 months and one of them was Taiwan. So if you don’t know by now, China and Taiwan are not so friendly towards each other. The clerk personnel who initially checked my visa form just taped over Taiwan with white out. So if you’ve been to Taiwan in the past 12 months, just leave it out.
Don’t forget to sign your China visa application form and date it.
Different Strokes for Different Folks
Okay, so everyone reading this will probably have to bring different documents depending on their traveling situation.
Here’s my situation. I’m married to a Thai with a Non-Immigrant O visa based on Thai family. And my work is based in the USA. I’m heading to China on a business/tourism purpose.
Here’s a list of documents I brought with me for submission:
My Prepared Documents (You only need to hand in one set)
Two recent passport sized photos (size and requirements) Glue one photo on the area indicated on first page of visa application. The other photo will be clipped to your passport.
Photo copy of passport photo page, Thailand entry stamp, Thai visa page
Proof of residence in Thailand (Not necessary if you have a Thai Tourist Visa)
Thai marriage certificate to prove I’m married to a Thai and the reason why I’m in Thailand (Also, don’t need this if you’re just a tourist in Thailand)
Flight itinerary – Into China and out of China
Hotel confirmation
* Invitation letter from Canton Fair
** Letter of intent (What’s all this about? You’ll find out below)
Recent bank statement
In Mark Wien’s blog post he stated Americans needed to hand in two sets of applications. I was only required to hand in one. I made an extra set, just to be safe. Again his blog post was made 4 years ago. In any case, the agency clerk took only one set from me.
There are copy machines and passport photo booths inside. I don’t remember how much they charge but just make your life easy and have all the copies and passport photos ready. Chances are, it’ll be cheaper to get all this done outside of the CVASC office.
* Letter of Intent
For #9 I mentioned letter of intent. This is a short letter you sign declaring what you’ll be doing in China. I didn’t even know I had to write this letter until I read this blogger’s post on getting a China visa in Bangkok.
Here’s what my letter of intent looked like:
To Whom it May Concern
My name is Warren Chan. I am a citizen of the United States with passport number ********. I have a Thai wife and currently staying in Thailand with a type “O” non immigrant visa based on marriage/family.
I would like to travel to Guangzhou China to attend the 124th Canton Fair and tourism with my wife. I have already pre-registered for attendance to Canton Fair and have included my invitation letter with my visa application.
I would like to stay in Guangzhou, China from October 30th, 2018 to November 5th, 2018.
Sincerely,
When you’re writing your own letter of intent just make it simple. My first letter of intent was long and too specific in detail. And I changed it to the one you see above.
** As my letter states I’m planning on attending the Canton Fair which upon registration I could download an invitation letter. Whenever you’re going to China for business if you can get an invitation letter from the company or factory you’re planning to visit make sure you get a letter from them so you can submit along with your China visa application. This is only needed if you’re applying for a China business visa.
If you know a Chinese citizen living in China and you’re planning to visit them, ask them to write a letter of invitation on your behalf. Same goes for education purpose, say for example if you want to study Chinese martial arts at an institution.
Going to Chinese Visa Application Service Center
The Chinese Visa Application Service Center is not an embassy nor a consulate. It’s just an agency operating on behalf of the Chinese government for processing and handling China visas. And they charge a service fee which you can see below on my receipt.
With my stack of documents organized like an anal retentive applicant I felt prepared for the worst.
The easiest way to reach Thanapoom Tower is by using the MRT subway train. The closest station is Petchaburi MRT station. Use Exit #2 and make a left turn when you’re outside. It’s a 700 meter walk, pass Saint Dominic’s School and Thailand Tourism Authority office building.
Remember the China visa application service office is on the 5th floor.
The front of the CVASC office, but the entrance is on the right with a metal detector…
Inside CVASC Office
During my research on submitting China visa applications in Bangkok I read a lot of blog posts and comments where people complained of long lines and long waits. However, there were also lots of comments saying it was a quick, easy and painless process.
I got inside 9:10am and there was a line but wasn’t that bad. There were 3 lines for individual applicants to queue up on. There were about 10 people ahead of us. So things went smoothly. But I can understand why this part of the process could be a slow going.
CVASC office in Bangkok
First of all from my sharp ears I could listen to the staff telling people they were missing documents. Or some parts of their visa forms were filled out incorrectly.
Also, there are a lot of Thai tour agencies handing in piles of China visa applications with Thai passports. Obviously this is for large Thai tour groups. So one messenger would bring in stacks and stacks of applications which would take time for Chinese visa agency staff to sort through.
But the office clerks went through the piles of Thai passports quickly as Thai travel agencies already know the document process and requirements.
Getting the Ticket Number
Okay, so the line my wife and I first queued up on is really where CSAVC clerks check your application to make sure you have all the necessary information filled out properly. And they take a look at your supporting documents.
The staff are all Thai. They can speak English but not fluently. From my short interactions with them they are sincere. They are there to really help out and offer suggestions to make your application as squeaky clean as possible. So your China visa application process goes smooth.
Ahead of us were a couple of young European travelers that were in line ahead of us. I overheard they did not have their paperwork together. From the looks of it they seemed frustrated. On their hands were only two China visa application forms. It didn’t look too good for them as they stepped off line.
Waiting to Be Called
Your number could come up quickly. Which happened in my case. Because I had to change my letter of intent a little under the advice of the CVASC staff who first looked at my papers. Luckily, I brought my laptop and made the corrections right on the spot.
But I needed to print it out. On the second floor there is a small convenience shop with a computer and printer. I emailed the letter to my email account and printed it off from there. It cost 15THB per print out.
Pay attention to these screens…
By the time I got back to the 5th floor my number had passed. No big deal. Just go back to the desk where you got the first ticket and let them know what happened. They’ll print you a new one.
There are television screens at the front with ticket numbers as well indications for which counter to go. There’s no automated voices announcing numbers. Just the sound of a bell whenever a new number is displayed. Which means you have to have your eyes glued to the screens when your number is almost up.
When your number does comes up head to the designated counter. And hand in your paper work to the nice clerks.
Photo copy of my passport photo page, entry stamp, Thai visa page
Proof of residence in Thailand (again, you won’t need this if you’re on a Thai tourist visa)
Thai marriage certificate (no, you do not have to marry a Thai to get a Chinese visa)
Flight itinerary – Into China and out of China
Hotel confirmation
Invitation letter from Canton Fair (to prove I’m going to China for business)
Letter of intent
Recent bank statement
The agency clerk went through our applications and it was pretty straight forward. We had all our papers ready and in order.
Only our hotel confirmation and bank statement copies were not needed and returned to us. I recommend bringing them anyways. Because you just never know.
Then we were given our receipts and because we chose regular service we were told to come back in 4 days. You pay the fee when you pick up your passport.
My China visa fee was 5060THB. If you think about it that’s a pricey visa fee. However USA charges Chinese citizens the same amount in US currency when they apply to visit USA. The CVASC clerk that handled my case recommended I get the 10 year multiple China entry visa.
Which made a lot of sense because it’s the same price as a single entry visa which I had initially marked on my visa form.
Everything was simple and easy for my experience. As long as you have all your papers in order the China visa process in Bangkok should be painless.
I was out of the CVASC office just a little over an hour. So didn’t take much time at all really.
Picking Up My Passport
4 days later I got back to the CVASC office. Passport pick up time is scheduled between 9am to 4pm. I got there about 1pm and the place looked quieter than the first time I went.
Perhaps, it’s best to go hand in visa applications in the afternoon time instead to beat the morning rush?
I went straight to the counter, with no line to wait and showed my receipt and got a ticket number. I plopped my ass down on one of the chairs and a few minutes later my number came up.
Notice the 467.29B service fee?
Went to the counter and handed in my receipt and paid my 5060B fee for my brand new Chinese visa. My wife has a Thai passport her fee is 1500B. I checked my passport with my brand new China visa and saw I had a 10 year expiration date. So that’s cool. Be sure to check that your name is spelled correctly and your passport numbers match before you leave the center.
My wife wasn’t with me this time but as long as I had her receipt I could pick it up for her. I spent no more than 10 minutes this time.
Smooth Sailing
Thankfully, everything went through without a hitch. I learned a few things about getting a Chinese visa in Bangkok to share with everyone here.
Granted I went for the business visa, I don’t think getting a tourist visa to visit China could be any much harder. Not that it was hard to begin with.
It’s not difficult at all as long as you have all your supporting documents with you, before you show up. That’s the main key. Also bring your laptop to make quick changes on your China visa application forms if necessary. There’s no internet access inside, but you can use your mobile phone to act as an internet hotspot.
With all the proper documents in hand you shouldn’t have any problems also while applying for a China visa in Bangkok whether you’re going as a tourist or for business.
Need help with finding the best Hua Hin beach hotels in Thailand? I have just the right hotels by the beach you’re looking for. Including my personal reviews and cost.
Hua Hin may not be as developed as Bangkok but it does afford many tourists comforts such as good quality hotels by the beach with reasonable rates. It’s a city well known for a much more laid back atmosphere. A clean beach and most of all delicious and affordable seafood.
But if you don’t mind walking just a short distance to Hua Hin beach you can certainly locate cheaper accommodations. However if you’re coming from afar, why not pick a hotel in Hua Hin that is close to the beach.
You’d be surprised how affordable beachside hotels in Hua Hin are.
I’ll even reveal my “Top 5 Hua Hin Hotels by the Beach” so you can make a better decision on where you want to stay.
But before I get into that, here are the best reasons why I think you should stay at a hotel right on Hua Hin’s pristine beach.
5 Reasons Why You Should Stay at a Hotel Near Hua Hin Beach
Hua Hin’s beach lines the central section of the city. By choosing a hotel by the beach area you can easily visit nearby attractions in Hua Hin such as their famous night bazaar.
For a small city, Hua Hin has a pretty big traffic problem. With very few pedestrian crosswalks in between. By staying at a hotel right on Hua Hin beach you don’t need to worry about crossing and waiting for long traffic lights.
Lots of hotels on Hua Hin Beach provide free shuttle service for guests to travel to nearby attractions such as the Cicada Market, Bluport Mall,and other points of interest near the hotels. So no need to rely on your own transportation or pay for tuk-tuks that charge 150THB one way.
Even though there are many international 5-star hotels located right on Hua Hin beach you don’t need to spend big money. There are many very affordable hotels right next to the mega hotels that share the same beach. If you can afford the big-name hotels then go for it. You won’t regret it.
Hua Hin beach is on the eastern seaboard so you’ll be able to enjoy a beautiful sunrise in the morning. Which is the best reason of all in my book to stay right on the beach!
I Highly Recommend Staying at a Hotel on Hua Hin Beach Between Hua Hin Night Market and Cicada Market
Hua Hin has a long stretch of sandy beach with many hotels right on the beachfront, from 5 stars to cozy boutique hotels.
The best area of the beach with hotels is between Hua Hin Night Market down to Khao Takiab (เขาตะเกียบ) translated as Chopstick Hill. Though Monkey Hill would be a more proper name as the area is full of cheeky monkeys that will rummage through your bags if given the chance.
But a few of the hotels on my top 5 Hua Hin beach hotels are just slightly outside of that particular area. Not by much though.
Matter of fact, one of my favorite hotels in Hua Hin by the beach and very close to Khao Takiab is number one on my list. It’s one of the best hotels in Hua Hin and is recommended for your first visit.
I’ve always been a fan of Amari-branded hotels and never had any problems at any of their properties. So when I found out there’s an Amari hotel property in Hua Hin by the beach I was excited to stay there. Granted it’s a bit of a walk to the beach. But they have a free shuttle car to take hotel guests there and back.
The Amari Hua Hin Hotel on Khao Takiab Beach
Technically the Amari Hua Hin is on Khao Takiab which is the southern end of Hua Hin Beach. They even have an awesome clubhouse by the beach where you can order drinks, and food and just chill out by the swimming pool overlooking the ocean.
When I stay at the Amari Hua Hin I usually book their Deluxe Pool View King room. It’s spacious and clean. I particularly like the view of the awesome massive swimming pool in the center of the hotel property. You can get a deluxe room with a view of the pool for around 3000THB per night with taxes.
Address: 25/2 Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin City Center, Hua Hin / Cha-am, Thailand
Affordable large rooms with a great ambiance. I did a review of Escape Hotel Hua Hin a few years back. I’ve been back there a few times ever since, especially when they have price drops on their hotel rooms during low seasons which is a great bargain.
The Escape is still one of the nicest hotels with a short walking distance to the beach and highly recommended. When I’m there I usually book the double rooms on the second floor for 3000THB per night. It’s a great bargain.
There’s even a free shuttle to take you down to Hua Hin’s night market. And they’ll even pick you up for a free return trip at a designated time. The Escape is one of the best affordable beach hotels in Hua Hin I highly recommend it.
Address: 25/2 Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin City Center, Hua Hin / Cha-am, Thailand
If you like pets or you’re traveling with your furry friends, the Ibis Hotel Hua Hin is the best pet-friendly hotel by the beach. Whenever my wife and I travel to Hua Hin with one of our cats we always prefer staying at the Ibis Hua Hin.
There are not many hotels on the beach in Hua Hin that allow pets. Thankfully Ibis is one hotel that does.
Granted their rooms are the smallest out of the five hotels reviewed here. But it’s very clean and the property throughout is well maintained.
However I want to add if you’re given the option to purchase breakfast I recommend passing it. I don’t think it’s an added value. There are many places to eat near the hotel within a short walk.
Address: 33 Naresdamri Road, Hua Hin Beachfront, Hua Hin / Cha-am, Thailand
With the Hilton brand name, you’ll know this will be one of the best beach hotels in Hua Hin. This 5-star resort is practically right on the beach. The beach is 90 meters from the hotel but with their amazing swimming pool, it’ll be hard to decide if you’ll want to stay by the pool or swim in the ocean.
The Hilton Hua Hin is not cheap. But not expensive either by international standards. Their King Classic Ocean view rooms are only 4000THB per night with taxes. That’s a real bargain for a 5-star hotel in the center of Hua Hin’s beach.
5. Avani Hua Hin Resort and Village – 4 Star Hotel
Address: 1499 Petchkasem Rd. Cha-am, Hua Hin Beachfront, Hua Hin / Cha-am, Thailand
The Avani Hua Hin is another awesome hotel by the beach in Hua Hin. Again, the swimming pool at this resort’s main attraction. I’ve spent many days just soaking in the pool. Some really fun memories.
Yet this is another hotel by the beach only 90 meters from the hotel and affordable too. For 3000THB per night with taxes I’ve stayed in the Avani Deluxe Room.
The Avani Hua Hin is practically one of the newest hotels in central Hua Hin, built-in 2016. I especially recommend this hotel if you’re traveling with children. Your kids will love the swimming pool and the fun kid’s club on premises.
These are the best beach hotels to stay in Hua Hin for the very first time. And if you consider the prices are quite affordable too, especially 5-star hotels like the Hilton Hua Hin. And if you’re on a budget you should consider staying at the Escape Hotel Hua Hin.
But whichever hotel you choose on this list I’m sure you’re going to enjoy your holiday in Hua Hin for your very first special visit.
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A Little Side Trip From Taipei With Kitty Cats – And a Mystery Shrouding the Village’s History
Recently on my latest Taiwan trip, I came across Houtong Cat Village 侯硐貓村 in Ruifang District, just northeast of Taipei about 35 kilometers and just 1 hour away from Taipei Main Station by train.
After a few days spent sightseeing in Taipei, I decided it was time for a leisure side trip. I wasn’t looking for a full-day trip away from Taipei. Because I also wanted to drop by various locations to explore along the way.
So I googled for some must-see places to visit in Taiwan that were at least an hour away from Taipei and found Houtong Cat Village. A village with lots of cats. Say no more. I’m there.
Anyone who knows me knows I love cats. I adore them to death and have three cuddly fur balls back home in Thailand. I even created an Instagram account for my feline rascals named Cats of Sai Mai (<– Note: shameless plug to get more followers on my cats’ Instagram account) so I couldn’t pass on the chance of being in the pleasant company of cats again.
Houtong Cat Village with the Keelung River cutting through it…
Houtong Cat Village – Or is It Monkey Station?
I can’t read Chinese so while I was doing research for this blog post I wanted to add the Chinese translation of Houtong Cat Village which is this “侯硐貓村” (as listed on google maps) to my blog. You know me, I like to be thorough with my travel blog posts like a good blogger should be.
But the thing is the actual railway station name for the village has this name “猴硐車站” which translates to Monkey Station. Hmm, monkeys and cats, this could get interesting.
But alas, there’s not a single monkey in this village. At least not anymore. When Japan took control of Taiwan in the late 1890s a coal mining industry was started in this village after it was discovered to be rich in coal deposits. There’s even a retired coal mining cave named after monkeys that is a converted tourist attraction today.
It doesn’t matter which name you prefer to call it, Houtong Cat Village or Monkey Station either one will get you here as this is the only village in Taiwan famous for a sizable cat population outnumbering village residents.
The Best Map of Houtong Cat Village (in English)
Most of the maps were in Chinese but I found the only map of the village in English. I wish I had found it earlier during my visit. Because there were a few points of interest I missed out on.
However, one thing I want to point out is that there are slight inconsistencies like the Ruey San Coal Dressing Plant. It doesn’t look like the illustration at all.
Here’s what the Ruey San Coal Dressing Plant looks like…Credit: http://librarywork.taiwanschoolnet.org/gsh2012/gsh7217/houtong_map.html
Granted the entire cat village is not a huge place as you can see on the map. You can find billboard maps at certain points inside the railway station and Houtong Square. But those maps are only in Chinese.
I missed out on the visitor center as I didn’t even know it was there. I found the tourist information center and thought it was the same. Just my opinion but I think they should move the visitor center next to the tourist information center so everyone can find it easily.
猴硐車站 Huotong Station Entrance
So What Happened to the Monkeys?
My theory is since humans have such a propensity to be enormous a-holes the monkeys were forcefully displaced or hunted due to the prospering coal industry. I can imagine that the monkeys were looked upon as a nuisance and were getting in the way of day-to-day mining operations.
I mean, if monkeys lived inside the cave I wouldn’t be surprised at all if a couple of wrenches, hard hats and perhaps coal miners’ lunches went missing oftentimes.
Or maybe the monkeys got scared and fled deep into the mountains after watching 6000 humans move into their neighborhood to work the mines and support the industry.
But Ruifang District’s coal mining stopped operating in the early 1990s and with the downfall of the coal industry, the town population dwindled to less than 100 people as unemployed residents left in search of jobs elsewhere. Yet still no monkeys in sight.
But this isn’t the mystery I’m looking to solve…
But First, Here’s a Look at Houtong Cat Village
Houtong Cat Village opens at 8:00 am and the shops close around 6:00 pm. I arrived at the village in the afternoon and since it was early April the weather was cool and at times windy. It was cloudy which added an extra chill in the air. You can hear the wind blowing on my video’s audio.
There are not a lot of cats on this side of the town which is west of the Keelung River while I was there. At the end of the video, you’ll see the entrance of Monkey Cave. You can only get inside with a guided tour. More details about Monkey Cave are below.
During my visit, most of the cats were found on the residential side of the village…
To find more cats you have to cross the futuristic-looking cat bridge opposite Monkey Cave. This area is where what’s left of the local population lives. And the locals are active in caring for the cats.
I wish I made a video of this part of town but I was too busy playing with the cats. One of the moments as a blogger I wish I had three arms. Oh well, this just means I have to add this to my list the next time I’m back in Taiwan.
How Many Cats Are in Houtong Cat Village?
Hard for me to say since I was only there for about 3 hours. Cats sleep most of the afternoon time and have nocturnal traits. But they are active during mornings and evenings which is the conventional wisdom offered by cat behaviorists.
But I can tell you it’s best to keep your expectations down. I honestly thought I’d find a boatload of cats all lined up in a row everywhere waiting to greet me with purrs while curling under my feet.
Inside Houtong Station you’ll find this photo board near the ticket booth. There are only about 80 cats…
If you ask me about cat behaviors I can tell you this, cats are awake and sleep whatever time they damn please on their own accord. If I recall correctly I came across 15 different cats. And I am sure there are more around somewhere. It’s a big village with plenty of hiding spaces for kitty.
It’s just that it was chilly in the morning and even though the afternoon warmed up a little when the clouds cleared the cats were still snoozing in or keeping warm somewhere.
All the cats I saw that day were adults. Was hoping to see some kittens…
While searching online for Houtong’s cat population number I came across this article stating 200 cats. Another article stated that 80% to 90% of the cat population was neutered and spayed.
At Houtong Station there’s this poster board lined up with cat photos. But I only counted 80 cats and none of them were kittens.
Which leads me to think will there be another generation of cats to bolster the current cat population?
So the next time I go back to Houtong Village I’d like to find out what the official number is closer to.
But first, there’s a mystery to solve and it starts with finding out who Peggy Chien, the woman who single-handedly revitalized the village of Houtong is…
The first time I’ve ever seen a litter box in a train station filled with kitty nuggets…
Houtong Cat Village – How They Get Famous So Fast?
As curious as a cat (pun intended) I was trying to find out how Houtong became a village famous for its cats in a decade.
Online research pointed me to a Taiwanese photographer named Peggy Chien (a.k.a. Chien Pei-ling) who started it all with her Flickr account.
Long story short Peggy’s numerous cat photos in Houtong Village piqued the curiosity of cat-loving Taiwanese people. Eventually, the world matter of fact as her series of cat photos was reportedly seen on Flickr with 800 million views.
That’s an insane number of views. Even for cats if you think about it.
There’s not even a mention in National Geographic’s article about Taiwan’s famous cat village Peggy Chien.
This is the best information I could find about Peggy here. And many other news sources scraped the same article about her to the point I don’t even know where the article originated.
And those articles are the only sources I could base my research on for this blog post.
Maybe this little kitty knows who Peggy Chien is…
Coincidentally Peggy’s husband is a veterinarian and along with a group of volunteers in 2007 they all traveled to Huotong and systematically neutered, spayed, and vaccinated most of the feline population.
With plenty of healthy cats roaming around and thousands of eager visitors waiting to play with kitties, Houtong grew into a village that hosted cat lovers worldwide with cat cafés and shops crammed with cat-themed souvenirs.
Just like that a new tourist industry and the attraction were born. That’s the short history version of course but that’s how this village of kitties in Taiwan came to be such a popular day trip from Taipei.
The Real Mystery of Houtong Cat Village
I wanted to add a photo of Peggy to my blog and as adept as I am with this internet thingie I can’t locate one photo of her. There’s no luck finding the actual Peggy Chien (also her alias) of Houtong Village’s claim to fame on Facebook and Instagram.
We all know how easy it is to find people these days on both social media platforms especially if there’s notoriety attached to a name. And reportedly she published several books featuring the cats of Houtong Village too.
Granted maybe she doesn’t have a Facebook account. But she’s reportedly a photographer by trade. If so the least she would have is an Instagram account, right?
I mean look, even my cats have their own Facebook page here. (<– Note: look, another shameless attempt to get more likes! Might as well click the link and follow my cat’s FB page and be done with it)
Souvenir store on the residential side of the village. Regardless of where Peggy Chien is it’s undeniable that cats have revived this village…
Also, I couldn’t even find one book title she published. Or her Flickr account with the 800 million views that started it all. Not even a photo of herself in Houtong Village doing what she does best. Mysterious indeed don’t you think? (cue X-Files theme song)…
Back to the Cat Village
But I digress. I suppose it doesn’t matter. What matters is that a wonderful little village has been given a second life with thousands of visitors coming in on weekends to have a chance to enjoy the company of cats and breathe the fresh mountain air.
The denizens of Houtong averted the possibility of their village becoming a ghost town. There’s a good uplifting story in there no matter how you look at it.
Maybe even a Hollywood movie will be made one day where they’ll cast Scarlett Johansson to play Peggy Chien. Have you seen Ghost in the Shell?
Peggy if you’re out there they should make you the Mayor of Houtong Cat Village.
This is the first souvenir shop right downstairs from Houtong station…The village square has a handful of restaurants and souvenir shops…This souvenir shop sells Taiwan’s famous pineapple cakes in the shape of cats…
Chances are if you’re in Houtong Cat Village you’re also going to want to check out Monkey Cave. It’s connected to the Ruey San Coal Transportation Bridge over the Keelung River.
Assuming you’ve successfully maneuvered past all the folks taking selfies. This bridge is a great spot to get a magnificent 360 view of the mountains surrounding the village.
I haven’t been all over Taiwan yet but after spending a little bit of time on this bridge overlooking the Keelung River and viewing the mountains with thick lush green trees and plants one can’t help but think “Wow Taiwan is really beautiful”.
Ruey San Coal Transportation Bridge connects Monkey Cave and Houtong Village Square…
Monkey Cave
This is the only attraction in Huatong Village with an entrance fee. An adult ticket cost NT$150 and if I recall correctly NT$100 for children. I think it’s worth it and the money funnels back into the village so why not?
Sitting on a toy train and getting ready to get into Monkey Cave…
You and a group of tourists ride a toy train through a short section of tunnels. Eventually, there will be an open area where everyone gets off. The tour guide/toy train operator only spoke Chinese.
He explained the history of Monkey Cave the daily lives of coal miners that lived in the village and how they worked. I can’t understand Mandarin Chinese but I’m pretty sure that’s everything he said.
Maybe if I could understand Mandarin Chinese I would’ve learned what happened to the monkeys.
This little toy train with enough space for approximately 20 people…Tour guide and toy train operator. He only speaks Mandarin Chinese…The next time you complain about your job just remember this photo…
After the explanation, visitors stay in the area for about 15 to 20 minutes where they can put on hard hats and handle pneumatic drills and push around wheel barrels. The perfect time for obligatory snapshots and selfies.
It’s the one time in your life you get to play pretend you’re a coal miner. If you’re traveling with kids I think they will enjoy this part of the tour.
There are fewer cats to see around Monkey Cave…
After visiting this side of the Keelung River it was time for me to head to the other side of the village where it is said you can find even more cats.
Remember, the Keelung River splits the village in two so all I had to do was make my wake back across the bridge through the railway station and walk across the cat bridge.
If you do not want to take a tour of Monkey Cave you can certainly learn a lot about the village’s past coal mining operation at the visitor center near Huatong Railway Station. There are public bathrooms inside the visitor center…
From the Monkey Cave entrance to the cat bridge is a short 15-minute walk. This village isn’t all that big. Which is why you probably won’t need to stay here the entire day.
I remember as I was making my way across the village the sun started to peak out and the wind died down. With luck, more cats will come out to warm themselves and soak up the sun.
Off to the Other Side of the Village, I Go
Cat Bridge -Kind of resembles a cat but could be I took this pic at the wrong angle…
On this side of Houtong, you’ll see it’s the main residential section of the village. Some of the residents have converted their dwellings into cafés and some sell souvenirs and food outside of their homes.
But you’ll also see evidence of collapsed homes and some that fell into disrepair. I was quickly reminded that Houtong Village once had a population of around 6000 people when the coal mining industry was booming.
A row of cat café in Huatong Village…
I could see there were more cats in this section of the village. This makes sense because there are locals in this part of town with a ready supply of kitty kibble to feed hungry feline residents. Most of them looked feral however and don’t let humans too near them.
And because the clouds cleared you can see a handful of cats sunning themselves after a chilly start in the morning. Cats wearing collars were more friendly and playful most likely because they’re used to being around people.
Awwww…Don’t you just admire a cat’s grooming ability?…
The Rules of Huatong Village Cat Club
You can tell the residents of the village value the feline population that shares space with them. All the cats I’ve seen look well-fed and cared for.
Some I saw lived indoors with residents but every single cat was coming and going minding their businesses. But almost everywhere I saw have cat shelters placed all over. It’ll be difficult to find a homeless cat in Houtong that’s for sure.
There are even rules posted throughout the area such as:
Do not scare the cats or chase them
Do not feed the cats inferior food
Do not use flash photography on the kitty
And there are rules to protect the village property and personal health like:
Do not leave leftover food
Wash hands after playing with cats
Pick up garbage and keep all areas clean
Feeding Time – A resident prepares a mix of wet and dry cat food for feeding time…The entrepreneurial spirit is not dead in Huatong Cat Village…Many cats are looked after by local business owners like this kitty inside this cat café…
How to Get to Houtong Cat Village from Taipei
What I did was take a northbound train to Ruifang. Train fare cost NT$56 one way at Taipei Main Station. You can purchase tickets from automated vending machines but there are no English instructions.
However, station workers are wearing a yellow vest that can speak English and they can assist you with purchasing the right ticket and direct you to the correct platform.
Make sure you don’t lose your ticket because there will be a station attendant waiting to collect your ticket near the station exit. If you lose your ticket they will make you clean every single litter box in the station.
Houtong Railway Station
Spending two to three hours in Houtong Cat Village is sufficient enough. Additionally, you can also visit nearby Shifen Old Street 十分老街 with its scenic waterfall.
Plus the old gold mining town of Jiufen 九份 also another historic district in Taiwan (I’ll have blog posts about both areas soon) to make a complete day trip from Taipei.
The next time I return to Houtong Cat Village I’m going to make sure I don’t go there on weekends. Because the Riufang train route is very popular with visiting tourists and locals making stops at Huatong, Shifen, and Jiufen. It’s better off visit on weekdays to avoid crowds.
The Takeaway
If you’re looking for a nice little side trip from Taipei and have a soft spot for cats you should come visit Houtong Cat Village. The landscape surrounding the village is breathtaking and if you visit there during the summer the view is even better.
But I certainly enjoyed my time there even though the temperature started chilly.
I recommend visiting Houtong Cat Village with your kids…
If you’re traveling with children this will be a fun outing for them. All the kids I saw looked like they were having a good time.
Whether by chance or design, I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. And this is a place that I would certainly visit again when I’m back in Taiwan.
If you need some information about visiting Houtong Cat Village or if you know anything about Peggy Chien so that I may update this blog post, please drop a comment below.
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