There are many reasons to stay in Shinjuku, Tokyo for your first visit to Japan. It’s one of the most popular areas in Tokyo convenient for travel, food, and overall full Japanese travel experience.
Shinjuku district has everything you’ll love and or was interested in Japan in the first place. The wonderful culture, the mesmerizing lights of billboards and signs with flashy Japanese characters. The sounds of J Pop music blaring around every corner with maid café hostesses carrying billboard menus.
The vibe of Japan is everywhere!
And who can forget about amazing Japanese foods too!
You’ll either love the Shinjuku in Tokyo or hate it. Some friends told me so when I was looking for good affordable hotels in Shinjuku. It was my first visit to Japan back then.
I’ve stayed in Shinjuku frequently. Although you can visit most of Tokyo via the Yamanote Line I prefer walking. So I’ve never taken a train to Shinjuku Gyoen Park, Shibuya, Harajuku, and Meiji Shrine to the south. I walked to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office to the west before and it was pleasant.
I tell you staying in Shinjuku was everything I expected. It blew my mind.
But there is more to Shinjuku. It will be right in your face and hard to ignore.
Shinjuku’s Famous Red Light District
Shinjuku is home to Tokyo’s largest red light district. To be more precise the Kabukicho Entertainment District. According to Wikipedia, there are over 3,000 nightlife establishments for tourists and locals to behave naughty. All crammed into .15 square miles.
It’s a terrific area to check out, especially at night. I recommend Izakaya Bars, these are popular food and drink establishments preferred by hard-working salary men and women. You can easily find them all over Kabukichō Entertainment District.
Shinjuku bar hopping Magical Tour group…
If you want a guided tour of Shinjuku bars I recommend Magical Trip. An English-speaking guide that will take you on a 3.5-hour bar-hopping tour of Shinjuku to places you might not find on your own.
Shinjuku Golden Gai
If you love beers and hard liquors, in tight quirky spaces with friendly bartenders, you must not miss the bars of Golden Gai! It’s an alley full of tiny bars stacked on top of tiny bars. Many with only 5 seats for bar patrons.
I first took a walk through Golden Gai twenty years ago. Back then it wasn’t really for foreign tourists. And I gotta admit it was intimidating.
Today Golden Gai has become so famous and well-known around the world Golden Gai’s Japanese bars have adopted a foreign-friendly attitude.
Today there are signs welcoming everyone. Even when the bars are super tiny with very little seating.
Golden Gai Bars Shinjuku
Because Shinjuku is NOT for Everyone
I stayed in Shinjuku a few times as a single male traveler. I can tell you with certainty if you’re a guy walking around Kabukicho you will be approached by pimps and touts. It’s annoying but if you can chill and relax they will leave you alone.
Today now that I have a wife and child traveling with them around Kabukicho where you see photos of scantily clad women plastered all over the area I get it. Shinjuku is not the type of place you want to take your mother to.
So why am I recommending Shinjuku for your first time in Japan? When they’re are so many other terrific neighborhoods in Tokyo.
If you can overlook the shenanigans and monkey business, which the local Japanese and millions of foreign travelers with families do you can easily have a terrific holiday.
There’s more good than bad for Shinjuku and safe for solo and female travelers.
Why Stay in Shinjuku
You can find all types of accommodations for all budgets. Because Shinjuku has a high concentration of hotels from the capsule, budget, and luxury, it’s all there.
Shinjuku Station is a great starting point for train travel to neighboring cities in Japan and also around the country.
Whether you prefer traveling by train or on foot, you can reach many popular areas in Tokyo quickly.
Lots of shopping and restaurants, just like it is in any of Tokyo’s major neighborhoods.
Shinjuku JR Station
Shinjuku Station is an incredibly complex transportation hub. All major railways connect to what the Guinness Book of World Records calls the busiest station. It’s where you can ride the city’s subway or catch a bus from the nearby bus depot.
It’s an amazing and beautiful station it’s even possible you can spend an entire day inside.
Although this hotel is the furthest away from Shinjuku station, Kabuchiko, and the center of activity, it’s not that bad. Sotetsu Fresa Inn Higashi Shinjuku is located on the quiet side of Shinjuku. I’ve stayed here more than a few times.
There’s a metro station not far from the hotel with plenty of restaurants for food and drink.
The rooms are typically small but most importantly clean and tidy. The hotel staff are curt and polite it is a good business-class hotel fit for touring Tokyo. I highly recommend this hotel!
Read reviews and find discounts for Sotetsu Fresa Inn Higashi Shinjuku on Agoda.com
Sotetsu Fresa Inn Higashi Shinjuku – Standard Room
This hotel will put you in the thick of all the nightlife action Kabukicho offers. Still a great little hotel mainly due to its location and quality. Though I warn you the room size is not highly desired at 12 square meters. But the room is clean, there is an onsen bath onsite and the room rate usually includes breakfast.
Overall a pretty good value.
Read reviews and find discounts for Super Hotel Shinjuku Kabukicho on Agoda.com
If you want to stay at a hotel with a massive Godzilla head on the rooftop and close to Shinjuku Station then I’ve got a hotel for you.
It’s a really good value for a 4-star hotel. The standard rooms are just slightly larger at 18 square meters and cost around $125 USD. Though they do have rooms up to 25 square meters you have to pay extra but not that much.
But I gotta warn you this hotel is in a super busy location so there are lots of people especially at night and on the weekends. But none of the stuff outside spills into the hotel.
Read reviews and find discounts for Hotel Gracery Shinjuku on Agoda.com
I always seek out new hotels in Shinjuku. WPU is one of the newest in the district. This means that the rooms will be tiny as most newer hotels in Tokyo are.
Located around the northern tip just a 10-minute walk to Shinjuku station. And Shinjuku subway station is mere meters away. Goes without saying there are plenty of dining options all around.
WPU Hotel has really good reviews for cleanliness and front desk service. But I warn you the rooms are the smallest like I mentioned at around 11 square meters.
Read reviews and find discounts for WPU Shinjuku on Agoda.com
Hotel Amanek is another property in the heart of Kabuchiko. So the price is higher but not so much that it’s not affordable.
The rooms here are slightly larger and the hotel staff is attentive. Again even though Hotel Amanek is located in Shinjuku’s red light district, none of spills into the hotel. Matter of fact it’s like an oasis away from the madness of Kabuchiko.
You can walk to nearby Golden Gai or simply check out the Izakayas for food and drink. Just the perfect location for enjoying local nightlife.
There are many hotels all over Shinjuku and I’ve shown you a few around Kabuchiko and Golden Gai. As well as others that on the outside away from the district’s nightlife.
And even though there are so many transportation options in Shinjuku I recommend getting around on foot if possible. Because Tokyo’s sidewalks are wide and well-paved. Streets signs are in English which makes wandering around fun.
I hope you find my hotel recommendations to your liking. Please check out my other Japan travel recommendations for even more helpful resources:
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Where to Stay in Kobe (神戸) For Your First Epic Visit to Japan
It is written that Kobe, Japan is only worth a day trip visit from Osaka and Kyoto.
I say how dare they. Have they ever been to Sannomiya?
The magnificent port city of Kobe, in its own right, is a city that deserves at least several overnight stays. And on this post, I’ll explain why Sannomiya is the best area to stay in Kobe along with a couple of affordable hotels I’ve stayed in.
Not long ago, I visited a full week in Kobe moving around three neighborhoods and staying in three different hotels. From my experience Kobe hotels are a lot more affordable than larger cities within the Kansai region of Japan.
Especially while I was in Sannomiya and discovered the reasons why it’s such a perfect location. It’s the center of Kobe and a major public transportation hub.
Kobe is a Fantastic Jump Point to Visit Other Prefectures of Japan’s Kansai Region
Most travelers make the choice of staying in Osaka or Kyoto first. And then visiting nearby cities like Nara, Kobe and then Himeji which is the furthest city from the rest mentioned. That’s not a bad choice, Osaka is also a great city to visit for a first time trip to Japan.
Instead I’m making the case that Kobe is a great city as a base to explore other parts of Japan’s Kansai region. Especially when you don’t have a lot of time.
This is especially true when you’re flying out of Kansai International Airport (KIX). Traveling from Kobe to KIX is fast and affordable. From central Kobe where we were staying it only took us one hour to reach Kansai International Airport.
If you stay in Sannomiya you won’t have a hard time traveling or rush to the airport since it is so near.
Ferris wheel at Kobe harborland…
5 Reasons Why Kobe is Such a Great City to Check Out for Your First Visit in Japan
Kobe is located in Hyogo prefecture in Kansai region. It only takes 20 to 30 minutes train ride (depending on train line) to Osaka and train fares cost 300 yen to 400 yen.
Kobe hotels are more affordable compared to Osaka and Kyoto. And way more affordable compared to Tokyo. Below are a selection of fine affordable family friendly hotels I recommend.
Kobe is a historic city where many foreigners used to live in the Kitano-cho (北野町, Kitanochō) district. You’ll certainly enjoy the city’s history and natural beauty starting with Mount Rokko to Sorakuen Garden and on to Arima Onsen for hot springs. There’s more to see along Nankinmachi (南京町), Kobe’s own little Chinatown. There’s plenty of sights and attractions in Kobe to round out an amazing vacation in Japan.
Kobe beef. Need I say more?
It only takes roughly one hour travel between Kobe and Kansai International Airport.
Best Way to Travel to Kobe from Kansai International Airport And Back
Yes, it only takes 1 hour to travel from Kobe to KIX airport and vice versa. Here’s a post I wrote about traveling from central Kobe to KIX airport using the convenient Bay Shuttle. There are photos with directions on that post that will help you navigate and find the right area to catch the shuttle boat to the KIX.
A short 30 minute ride from on ferry shuttle from Kobe Airport to Kansai International Airport (KIX)
Bay Shuttle Kobe-Kansai Airport Fare 2023:
Adults 1880 yen (one way) – 3060 yen (round trip) Children ages 6 – 11 940 yen (one way) – 1530 yen (round trip)
But great news! While I was lookin up the current fare price for Kobe-Kansai Airport Bay Shuttle. I saw a big discount for tickets.
Discounted Fare for Foreign Tourists Until March 31st, 2024:
Adults 500 yen (one way) Children ages 6-11 250 yen ( one way)
To reserve your fares and check ferry schedule take a look at their website, credit cards are accepted. This is a special deal only available to foreign tourists.
This is the biggest discount I’ve ever seen…
But here’s a heads up. Japan’s typhoon season starts end of August to early September. So you’ll want to check the weather forecast or plan around this time to avoid travel delays.
How to Get to the Bay Shuttle from Kobe’s Sannomiya Station
At JR Sannomiya Station look for signs near the east gate leading to Kobe Portliner Sannomiya Station. Adult fare is only 330 yen and the ride. Look for the train heading to Kobe Airport which is the terminal station. The ride only takes 20 minutes.
Portliner Station is where you catch the train to the bay shuttle ferry at Kobe airport…Kobe Portliner train is located at the east gate. You will see plenty of signs leading to the station…
Now that you know the reasons why I think you should stay longer in Kobe for your first epic visit to Japan, let’s get down to the nitty gritty. You’re home away from home.
My 4 Favorite Hotels Are located in Kobe’s Chuo Ward in Sannomiya
And all the hotels I recommend in Sannomiya are close to 6 train stations:
JR / Sannomiya station
Hankyu Railway / Kobe-Sannomiya station
Hanshin Railway / Kobe-Sannomiya station
Kobe Port Liner / Sannomiya station
Kobe Subway Seishin-Yamate line / Sannomiya station
Kobe Subway Kaigan line / Sannomiya-Hanadokeimae station
With so many train stations you can easily catch one for day trips around the Kansai regions. I used the JR train to visit Himeji for a day.
Plus Nearby Things to See and Do in Kobe
Sannomiya, the center of Kobe’s city
Meriken Park located on the bay of Kobe with its signature iconic red, cylindrical 108 meter-high Port Tower
Kobe Harborland has a seaport shopping center right next to Meiken Park. If traveling with young children check out Anpanman Children’s Museum & Mall.
Kobe Maritime Museum also located within Meriken Park
Nanking Machi is Kobe’s vibrant Chinatown
My Favorite Hotels in Sannomiya
Sannomiya is the heart of Kobe City. It is divided into two areas, north and south which is conveniently divided by Sannoymiya Station.
Hotels in South Sannomiya from my experience is where you’ll find the most budget friendly hotels in Kobe.
My recommended hotels all have free internet wi-fi as most hotels in this day and age should. And it’s fast with easy connection. I chose a few of these mostly because of the larger than average Japanese hotel room sizes.
Except for the capsule hotel which was mainly done out of fun and experience. Overall, my select pick of these four hotels in Sannomiya will ensure you have a comfortable, enjoyable stay.
The rates I provided are based on season. And also two persons per room, except for capsule hotel of course.
the b KobeKobe Capsule Hotel SekiAPA Hotel – Kobe SannomiyaHotel Villa Fontaine
1. the b Kobe Hotel – $75USD (Check rates and read reviews on agoda.com) This is the first hotel I’ve ever stayed in for my first trip to Kobe. And I’ve been back ever since. The reason is simple. Their rooms are larger than the average Japanese hotel room. With 14 sq. meters of space my wife and I can stay in comfort without bumping into our luggage.
2. Kobe Capsule Hotel Seki – $30USD (Check rates and read reviews on agoda.com) What kind of Kobe hotel review will this be if I don’t include one Japan’s famous capsule style hotels. I stayed here while I was traveling solo a few years back. It’s fun, comfortable and clean. Most importantly cheap. Though awhile ago it’s been converted into mens’ only capsule hotel.
3. APA Hotel Kobe Sannomiya – $75USD (Check rates and reviews on agoda.com) I always rave about APA chain of business classed hotels. This is my go to hotel option whenever I’m in Japan and I don’t know which hotel to stay in. This particular APA hotel has a buffet breakfast option that cost $10USD extra. Which is a very good deal.
4. Hotel Villa Fontaine – $65USD (Check rates and read reviews on agoda.com) I stayed at this hotel because all of my favorite budget hotels in Kobe were either fully booked or didn’t have double rooms to share with my wife. But when I got my room here I was totally happy. A superior double room is 18 sq. meters. Hotel Villa Fontaine is very popular today and one of the best affordable hotels in Kobe with terrific reviews.
A Quick Osaka City and Eating Guide from the Wayfaring Soul
I love wandering around Osaka, Japan because it’s a huge city with so much space to get lost in. It’s got a great energy with a unique mix of beautiful architecture. And then there’s the food! Oh my god the amazing food! And I’m not just referring to sushi.
There’s a reason why Osaka has the title of the Nation’s Kitchen “天下の台所 (tenka no daidokoro)”! It’s quite a title to receive if you think about it because Tokyo-Kanto region has a much larger population.
Ayu Sashimi, so fresh theres still blood on the bones…
So in this little walking and dining Osaka guide, I started off at my hotel near Hommachi Station with a stop over at JR Osaka Station to pick up my 4 Day JR West Kansai Rail Pass. And then heading over to Osaka’s City Hall at Yodobashi Station to start my walk straight down Midōsuji Boulevard and ending at Osaka’s famous Dotonbori shopping and food district.
You can walk up and down Shinsaibashi Shopping Arcade too if you have the time and energy to do so. Shinsaibashi is basically one long covered street full of shops and restaurants.
Before starting our stroll, we first went to Osaka Station to pick up our 4 Day JR Rail Pass…
Starting Off at Osaka’s City Hall with a Quick Bite to Eat
I was staying at Cityroute Hotel near Hommachi Station. Which is just a few stations to Osaka Station where I picked up my JR rail passes.
Then it was off to Osaka’s City Hall on the Yodabashi Line, Exit #1. I peeked at google maps quickly and saw a few cafés in the area because we we’re dying for some caffeine.
I’m not sure what it is but I discovered that Japan has some really good hot dogs. As a New Yorker I do miss and crave Gray’s Papaya hot dogs. And I can’t find decent hot dogs in Thailand. Osaka has a rich cuisine variety and yes! I do consider hot dogs in Japan a cuisine!
Iced latte and hot dogs with special sauces at Café Veloce Yodoyabashi…
We quickly found Café Veloce (website in Japanese only) after getting out from the subway station. This is a great little spot to get a quick bite and coffee because we were expecting to walk a lot today. Make sure you go upstairs to the second floor. You’ll have a great view of Osaka’s City Hall building and the O River.
Osaka’s City Hall is small narrow island surrounded by the O River…
Our plan was to walk from Osaka City Hall along Midōsuji Boulevard, bypassing Shinsabashi and ending at Dotonbori for a late lunch then head back out to hotel for a short rest and than back out for dinner.
Midōsuji Boulevard
Midōsuji runs directly north and south of the city. It’s the spine of Osaka and you can walk from Kita, all the way down to Namba. Just like it is in Seoul, South Korea you don’t need to take the subway to get around the best sights and locations in Osaka. Find this long and wide boulevard and you can’t get lost in Osaka.
This bridge connects Osaka City Hall along Midōsuji Boulevard…
After our quick bite it was already 1:30pm and even though it was high noon the light was harsh and bright in certain areas and in others it wasn’t.
We were in the start of of Japan’s winter but the temperature was not cold at all, about 22 °C (72 °F ) and the trees still had a lovely yellow appearance. But many leaves had already fallen off considerably.
Weird But Beautiful Light
I like taking pictures but it was kind of difficult because there were a lot of shade from the tall surrounding buildings and bright spots from the sun coming through. But it was still a beautiful with a lot of bright interesting light coming through.
The boulevard is lined with ginkgo trees and the leaves turned a bright yellow which made an amazing contrasts from the shadows of the office buildings.
Midōsuji reminds a lot like New York City’s famed Fifth Avenue with so many high end brand name stores. We passed by Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Chanel and Gucci stores. There was even an Apple store as well.
The boulevard was quiet though and not as hectic and congested on the streets as NYC’s Fifth Avenue. That was one thing that really surprised me. There’s not a lot of people walking around for a big city like Osaka.
An entire building of just Louis Vuitton…
Also what struck me was how quiet the city was. But it makes sense if you think about it. Most of the cars are electric or hybrid. And lots of locals ride bicycles to get around.
Never a bad time to stop and take a pic of a cute little pooch…
Also what struck me was how quiet the city was. But it makes sense if you think about it. Most of the cars are electric or hybrid. And lots of locals ride bicycles to get around. Living in Bangkok and NYC I’ve become accustomed noise pollution.
They say that Japan is a nation of new and old entwined together in harmony. So it’s not uncommon to see traditional temples and shrines surrounded by modern high rises and offices.
This little stroll from Osaka City Hall to Dontonbori along Midōsuji Boulevard only took us around 30 minutes. Could’ve been quicker but we took our time and I was taking pictures. It’s an easy walk and most Japanese prefer to walk or ride their bicycles the short distances instead of relying on the subway trains.
A Landmark in Dotonbori – Don Quijote
So how do you know you’ve arrived into Dotonbori? When you see this mega thrift store called Don Quijote right on the corner of Dotonbori Bridge. This super thrift store is known for carrying beauty supplies, household goods, snacks and all kinds of other goodies at reasonable prices for Japan.
Don Quijote is a thrift chain store known throughout Japan. This branch is located right on Dotonbori Bridge.
Head inside and you’ll see wall to wall, shelf to shelf items. There are home appliances, clothing, Japanese snacks and beverages. They even sell bicycles. The most popular items I saw inside seemed to be the makeup and beauty section located on the second floor.
Don Quijote is a very popular spot for tourists to pick up make ups and other beauty supplies…
Lots of creams, lotions, nail polishes, lipsticks and mascara. My wife was having a field day inside. All I bought was a nail clipper.
The building has six floors and you can get lost amongst the aisles just wandering around. And Don Quijote is open 24 hours so you can head in to spend that extra Yen burning a hole in your wallet.
Enter Dotonbori
Chances are anything everything you’ve seen about Osaka, on television, on Instagram or the magazines you’ll come across the iconic snow crab on top of Kani Douraku restaurant.
Snow crab is expensive as you’ve mostly likely learned while watching episodes of Deadliest Catch on television. So if you want to have a nice snow crab meal be ready to dole out some big cash.
Restaurant Kani Douraku, the crab house restaurant in Dotonbori, Osaka.
But what if you don’t want to blow your entire Japan trip on pricey crustacean? Kani Douraku has a stand outside selling charcoal grilled snow crabs. And you can some day tell someone that you indeed tried snow crab in Osaka, Japan.
You have can buy a few small pieces of grilled snow crab leg for 900¥. And when I mean small, I mean small. Not even a full single crab leg. About a quarters worth I’d guess. I’m not complaining, just telling it like it is.
I only ate a little bit because I’ve had it before but it was the first for my wife and she found the grilled crab meat sweeter then the blue crabs or big claw crabs in Thailand. It’s good crab. But is it worth the 900¥? I think it’s worth it just to try. But I can’t imagine myself or anyone else spending that amount of money on couple of crab meat on a consistent basis.
Got Shellfish Allergies? There’s More to Eat at Dotonbori…
Take a walk around Dotonbori promenade and if you threw a rock in any direction, chances are it’ll hit a restaurant. Ramen, food vendor, sushi and Osaka’s famous takoyaki are all there right in front of your face.
Takoyaki in Osaka is something you’ve got to try for yourself. It’s bits of octopus (tako) encased in a pancake batter and grilled (yaki) on hot oiled cast iron with round molds. When cooked the octopus balls have a crusty outside but the insides are piping hot but soft.
Then the balls are drowned in mayonnaise and a sweet and tangy brown sauce. To finish, takoyaki are liberally peppered with chopped scallions and bonito flakes (fish jerky). With a nice frosty beer it’s a great snack during Osaka’s winter.
Otherwise, take caution when you bite into the balls as they are piping hot and it’s the way Osakans prefer it. Every takoyaki stand or restaurant will offer customers a variation of toppings so have fun experimenting.
Ramen Restaurants in Dotonbori
It’s Japan so plenty of ramen restaurants are around and Osaka is no exception. Filling the stomachs of hungry salary man and women with noodles in a rich broth day and night. There are many popular restaurants in Osaka. Some you have to wait to get in like Ichiran Ramen and they have two branches in Dotonbori.
Ramen broth or soup is usually made with chicken or pork with a combination of other ingredients. I have seen some ramen restaurants with vegetable broth. And ramen noodles are eggless. But to be sure for yourself go google translate your dietary needs and print it out so you can show to restaurants.
The Wayfaring Soul Travel Tip #141: “Japanese restaurants typically have discounted lunch menus or special menus from 11:30am to 2:00pm. Though it’s best to get in an hour before to beat the lunch crowd.”
I’ve eaten at many ramen restaurants in Osaka and my belly size is proof. And I’ve never had bad ramen. Not one time. Sure, some places make it different than others. But that’s what makes any restaurant unique, right?
I’ve walked around Dotonbori and Shinsaibashi many times and I can tell you a lot of ramen restaurants are typically busy during the lunch and dinner rush. Japan’s restaurants are usually at the busiest from 11:30am to 2:00pm because they have lunch specials and discount during those hours.
Sushi in Osaka
Something that absolutely boggles my mind is how affordable sushi and sashimi is in Osaka. Normally in Bangkok if you want decent sit down sushi at a decent Japanese restaurant it’ll actually cost more than having sushi in Japan.
Sashimi and sushi as fresh as it can get in Osaka…
At this particular restaurant we ordered a mixed sashimi plate with an assortment of sushi, mixed shrimp and vegetable tempura plus 4 beers. The price came out to 7200¥ or about $65USD. And there’s no need to tip and no service charge added. We went to a few sushi restaurants in Dotonbori area and prices are about the same depending on the style of course.
But I can confidently say you can find many restaurants in Osaka with surprisingly affordable and most importantly fresh sushi to enjoy.
You don’t even need to find food at sit in restaurants. There are many al fresco dining options today in Dotonbori where everyone can enjoy eating on communal tables. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why Osaka is known as the “Nation’s Kitchen”.
I’ve been visiting Osaka for years and it’s always a joy to come visit and eat the food served by some of the friendliest peoples. Because there are so many tourists from all over visiting Osaka these days there are English menus and descriptions available.
But even if none are available Japanese menus are usually littered with food photos. Finally remember to always bring cash as most Japanese restaurants, street food vendors and ramen shops do not accept credit cards.
Dontonbori bridge. Straight up is Shinsaibaishi Shopping Arcade…
If you’ve read my day trip to Suwon post you’ll know I have a soft spot for quick getaways from popular city destinations. In this instance my wife and I was searching for a day trip from Osaka which we were based for this recent visit to Japan’s Kansai region.
Except this post it’ll be a lot shorter. Which is why I titled this post “A Short Day Trip to Wakayama City in Japan” and here’s the reason why.
Because in early December, the sun goes down around 4pm in southern Japan. With dusk rolling in so early it’s not too easy to take those spiffy and awesome super helpful photos you typically see on my travel posts.
But Seriously…
Wakayama City is the capital of Wakayama prefecture. There are about 350,000 inhabitants, so yeah it’s going to be a quiet place. It’s a coastal city with the Kino River running across central Wakayama. I read there’s a nice little seaside town on the coast but will have to visit that the next time around.
On this visit I was south of the Kino River because I only had enough time to visit Wakayama Castle. What can I say I’ve got a thing for castles because I used to play Dungeons and Dragons a lot when I was younger.
I arrived into JR Wakayama station around 1:30pm. I had planned to take my wife to a special ramen restaurant in the city.
The sky was overcast already and looked a bit gloomy. This was a bit of foreshadowing as you’ll see why later.
My wife and I were determined to seek out a popular ramen restaurant I read about on this CNN article. She’s an absolute Japanese ramen fanatic. And I’m out to earn some serious brownie points to impress her. It’s one of the why reasons you should visit Wakayama City if you truly love to search out popular ramen restaurants in Japan.
The Build Up
Ide Shoten is what I’m talking about. Apparently Ide Shoten became a super popular ramen joint after getting showcased on Japanese TV show. Check out the video below.
Looks amazing right!? I mean look at that those delish ramen noodles. And the big portions. Look at the juicy succulent sliced pork!
I’d earn myself enough brownie points from my wife to screw up for a entire whole year!
The “Bone Headed” Traveler
That should be the title of my blog. Did you know Ide Shoten closes on Thursdays? You might’ve noticed when you took a look at that CNN article. But I didn’t. And guess what day I showed up?
On a f***in’ Thursday!
But it’s alright my wife was cool about it. It’s not like it’s the last time we’ll ever visit Japan. And it’s certainly not the last time I’ll ever make stupid mistakes. Ide Shoten, I’ll be back.
“Wayfaring Soul Travel Tip #103: If you want to impress your better half with a nice restaurant be damned sure it’s open the day you plan to go”
Sarashina Honten – A Gem of a Find in Wakayama
Sarashina Honten is located about a 10 minute walk from the main entrance of JR Wakayama Station on Keyaki Odori Street…
We were getting hungry and after 30 minutes but what seems like an eternity of indecision and wandering around looking for a decent restaurant near JR Wakayama station we stumbled upon Sarashina Honten.
Now I can’t pinpoint exactly what Sarashina means. So if any of you fine readers out there that can tell me what it means I’d greatly appreciate it. But I found that “honten” 本店 means main restaurant.
Fake plastic food displays are truly unique to Japan…
There’s no other info on this restaurant save for what I found during a google map area search. It’s one of those utility Japanese restaurants with plastic fake food (Shokuhin Sampuru/食品サンプル) displayed outside of the window. But there’s no order ticketing machines where you’d put money in and punch out a ticket with your order on it.
Every self respecting eatery in Japan will have these uniquely Japanese styled displays…
The restaurant from the outside looked old and worn. Even the fake food samples looked faded and discolored. And no ticket menu vending machines in sight, my instincts told me one thing. Sarashina Honten is an old styled Japanese restaurant with old style charm. And my instincts were correct. Because to me, all the above are good signs.
Going in we were greeted and seated by a very nice lady. She could tell we were not locals. Being a small city this is definitely the kind of restaurant where you’d see regular faces frequently the same hours during the same days.
She gave us our menus in between servicing a few other tables of what looked like the late lunch crowd. Of course there are no English menus but there are picture menus and those were helpful enough. And if needed you can always lead the waitress outside and point to the display of fake foods outside.
While waiting for our lunch I could see into the open kitchen and saw what is most likely a family run operation. There were a couple of older aunties chopping and slicing ingredients. An older gentlemen on the opposite side frying something delicious. And a younger gentleman stirring some pots and plating orders.
These are the types of restaurants I love and get excited about. If I lived in Wakayama I would be one of those familiar faces that showed up the same hour during the same days.
Isn’t that the biggest pork tonkatsu you’ve ever seen?…
My wife picked out Oyakodon (chicken and egg bowl) 親子丼 for 600¥ from the menu. I ordered the 900¥ Tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) 豚カツ which came with a bowl of rice, miso soup and a small dish of pickled vegetables.
My wife’s food came first and I got my tonkatsu a few minutes later. My eyes nearly popped out when I saw the size of it. This tonkatsu could feed two but no way was I going to share. Good thing all the walking made me work up an appetite.
“Wayfaring Soul Travel Tip #219: In Japan, photos on food menus may look larger than they appear.”
The actual pork was flattened so the meat was really tender. And the brown sauce on top was tangy and heaven. The rice, the miso soup, the faced sized tonkatsu for 900¥ and the friendly hard working family. I simply fell in love with this restaurant.
If you’re reading this I highly recommend having a meal at Sarashina Honten. But I have to add, like many restaurants in Japan that smoking is allowed in Sarashina Honten. Just wanted to put that out there.
Cross this river on Keyaki Odori Street and your halfway between JR Wakayama Station and Wakayama Castle…
After saying good bye to our friendly waitress and the entire family in the kitchen my wife and I headed off in search of Wakayama Castle. It was about 2:30pm and with the overcast clouds there wasn’t much light and we were worried a little about rain.
How to Get to Wakayama Castle from JR Wakayama Station
This is the main entrance of JR Wakayama Station. The bus stop is outside of the main entrance…
On Foot – The good old fashioned way of walking from JR Wakayama Station to Wakayama Castle is a short 1.6km leisure walk. We did the walk to Wakayama Castle from the train station after stopping over to have lunch at Sarashina Honten.
On Bus – Like any other city in Japan, Wakayama has a good public bus system. You’ll find a bus stop right in front of the main entrance of JR Wakayama Station. The adult bus fare is 230¥. You can get coin change in the bus but best to carry exact change. The bus ride takes 5 minutes and stops right in front of the castle.
Wakayama Castle -This was taken outside of the castle grounds. There will be an incline to get up…
I’ve read reviews about Wakayama Castle elsewhere and some comments says it’s too small and perhaps not worth the trip. That it’s not that impressive or breath taking as Himeji Castle or Osaka Castle and so on.
To me that’s like saying every car is the same cause it’s got an engine and because it gets you from point A to point B.
Every castle has it’s own personality, it’s own spirit and perhaps even a soul. Even if Wakayama Castle was completely rebuilt in the 1950’s after being destroyed in WWII the grounds itself are historic.
Inside Wakayama Castel keep…
Here’s What’s Unique About Wakayama Castle
Entrance fee is 410¥ for adults and 200¥ for elementary and middle school students. Cheaper than Himeji Castle and Osaka Castle.
There’s a Ninja near the ticket booth. Really there is. You can ask to take photos with him but I couldn’t at the time as he was busy with another tour group.
There’s no huge tour groups! I mean there are visitors here and there but it’s not the same quantity as Osaka and Himeji. It’s like having an entire medieval Japanese castle to yourself.
Outside the castle grounds is a small zoo with free entrance. It’s not a large zoo but hey, it’s free!
Okay, you got me. Maybe I’m stretching this a bit. Just go to Wakayama Castle. I think you’ll like it. There’s a nice little garden with a pond in the back that’s super popular during cherry blossom season. Inside the castle grounds are 600 cherry trees and from late March to early April they all bloom. I’ll mark my calendar for that next year.
The castle is a museum so of course it’s going to have medieval armor and weapons on display. There’s also info about the city as well and how it grew and prospered through time. But, it’s all in Japanese.
And a few things worth mentioning. A lot of the museum displays and information are only in Japanese. After checking around I found out there are no guided tours. I guess because it’s a smaller castle there was no need to fund guided castle and grounds tours for visitors.
You get a 360 degree view of Wakayama City on top of the castle…
One thing I missed out on in Wakayama Castle is a bridge that connects two key areas. This bridge is special because it has wooden walls to conceal the lords and ladies as they moved around. I’ve seen photos of it after doing some research for this post.
A sign board map of Wakayama Castle near the entrance…
I missed it because it was getting dark already around 4pm. So the next time, I’ll be sure to arrive at the castle earlier.
I’ve always said I’m a piss poor planner. But I really don’t mind missing out on points of interest. Because it gives me an excuse to go back. And that’s really the part of the reason why I don’t pre-plan my trips. I can tell you I get lost a lot. Even for me that’s fun.
Because there are lots of reasons why you should visit Wakayama City so I’ll definitely go back and discover more reasons to.
The Fastest and Cheapest Way to Kobe from Kansai International Airport and Back
If you’re planning on visiting Kobe after landing at Kansai International Airport there’s a super deal for the high speed ferry that will zip you to Kobe in no time. Hopping on these fast bay shuttle boats is cheaper than taking a bus or a train from KIX to Kobe and back.
As of writing until March 31st, 2024 an adult one-way fare cost 500¥. The bay shuttle ferry takes you from Kansai International Airport to Kobe Airport in about 30 minutes.
The normal fare for adults cost 1880¥. Children’s one-way fare cost 200¥ down from 940¥. That’s a savings of 75%.
Discount price for foreigners…
This special discount is only available for foreign tourists. So you’ll have to present your passports. And this deal is valid until March 31st, 2024. And they have been extending these discounts because I remember this special fare for tourists since 2020.
I came across this discount while I was searching for the cheapest train option to KIX from Kobe. There are no direct trains so I would have to transfer to one of the trains at one of Osaka’s stations. Plus my flight departs at 10am which meant I would have to get up early and try to drag my butt to the airport a few hours before.
Which meant that I’d have to check out of my hotel at 5am. Which means I would be groggy, grouchy and possibly bitchy until I find some decent coffee. All in all, it wouldn’t be pretty.
So when I found out this better and cheaper way of getting from Kobe to KIX in about an hour I was all psyched.
credit: https://www.kobe-access.jp
Since I wanted to stay in Kobe for my last leg of the trip, using the bay shuttle makes more sense. I already stayed quite awhile in Osaka already recently. So I really wanted to spend more time in Kobe.
Kobe – Kansai High Speed Shuttle ferry service is hands down better than taking a bus or a train back to Kansai airport. Because the ferry ride takes about 30 minutes. Total travel time for me was only about 1 hour.
Boarding start 5 minutes before departure. There are about 50 seats inside. I would make a reservation on their website to lock in a seat…
This high speed ferry boat service going from Kobe to KIX runs every hour starting at 5:30am with the last departure at 10:45pm. The ferry boats run once every hour but check out their timetable to make sure in case there are changes. And of course it also runs from KIX to Kobe also which is great if you are planning to head to Kobe first.
Even though early in the morning there were plenty of seats available I still highly recommend you reserve a seat, especially if you’re traveling in a larger group. The boat has about 50 seat passenger capacity with designated spaces allocated for luggage.
I can imagine during peak hours it might be hard to get a seat. It’s a high speed boat after all and for safety reasons there’s no standing room permitted. When passengers are seated they are required to use the seatbelts.
How to Get from Kobe City to Kansai International Airport in Roughly 1 Hour
I was staying at b Kobe Hotel which is about a 5 minute walk to Port Liner Sannomiya Station (PLSS). The PLSS is directly connected to JR Sannomiya Station which is important to know because there are other train stations nearby with the Sannomiya name. And trust me you don’t want to get into the wrong station. Otherwise you’d never find PLSS.
So when you located JR Sannomiya station, start looking for signs directing you to PLSS. There were many signs and hard to miss.
Port liner station is on the second floor of Jr Sannomiya station…
There’s only one entrance to Port Liner Sannomiya station and it’s on the second floor. If you have a lot of luggage there is an elevator on the ground level. You’ll see the ticket vending machines like the one the picture below. Just like other ticketing machines you’ve come across while traveling on Japanese trains, you first must indicate how many fares you are purchasing and then you’ll get the total you have to pay.
It’s 330 Yen for 1 adult. I was buying tickets for myself and my wife and thus the 660 Yen total…
My flight was departing at 10am so I checked out of the hotel at 5am. The walk from b Kobe hotel where I was staying to Port Liner Sannomiya Station took about 5 minutes.
I actually went a few days ahead to find the entrance of the Port Liner station so I wouldn’t have to run around like a headless chicken at the last minute in the early cold morning of Japan’s winter. To me alone that would probably be fun. But I was traveling with my wife so I had to be a bit wiser. So that’s why I found the station quicker.
“Wayfaring Soul Travel Tip #86: Locating the exact location of your next transport hub beforehand will ensure smooth travels.”
There are only two platforms so be sure to read the digital display which points to the right platform. You’re looking for the train heading to Kobe Airport…
The first train at Port Liner Sannomiya Station arrives 5:40am sharp. The trip to Kobe Airport where the ferry terminal is located is 18 minutes long and the final stop. Remember to take the train heading for Kobe Airport. If I recall correctly the train waited for about 3 minutes before it left the station.
Inside a port line train. The ride is 18 minutes long, making 8 stops before terminating at Kobe Airport…
Because we were in so early the train was not crowded at all. The train makes 8 stops along the way and even stops at a station with an IKEA. I was so tempted to go buy some Lingonberry jam and some wall shelves. But we had a plane to catch.
Credit: https://www.kobe-access.jp – On this map you have to head to Kobe Airport Kaijyo Access Terminal. I don’t know why they just don’t call it the Kobe to KIX Ferry Access Terminal…
Almost There
Kobe Airport is the last stop. After you exit the ticket gate you should see some signs pointing the way to the port entrance right in front of you. There’s no need to go inside Kobe airport. When you go downstairs outside you’ll see the first large sign leading to the ferry terminal.
You’ll be walking past a parking lot and at the end of the parking lot is another sign directing you to go left. Then more signs leading you directly to the Kobe Airport Kaijyo Access Terminal.
There should be a bus that will take you to the pier but we didn’t see one I guess because it was still early in the morning. But for me and my wife the walk took about 5 minutes. So the pier is not far away.
The Kobe airport Kaijyo access terminal is the short white building in the distance…
I reserved 2 seats a few days ago before departure. Matter of fact according to their website reservations are available 3 months to 48 hours before departure. The ticket counter was easy to spot because the ferry terminal is not all too big. You can pay with credit card and I even saw a currency exchange booth.
Just a single ticket counter to purchase your fare…
So I informed them of my reservation and was asked to show my passports and then I got two tickets on the ferry to KIX at 500¥ a piece with 15 minutes to spare. I even had enough time to buy a hot coffee at a vending machine.
Besides vending machines selling hot and cold drinks I even saw ice cream too. Also some work tables with charging ports. Quite the cozy ferry terminal if I may say so.
Kobe – Kansai Bay Shuttle ferry boat…
At KIX Airport
Once passengers disembark at KIX ferry terminal a few buses are waiting. The first bus heads to Terminal 1 which is where all airlines are located except for Peach Airline which is located in Terminal 2. Don’t worry, all the buses have digital displays indicating which bus goes to which terminal.
Check the bus’s digital display. Some of the Terminal 2 buses will make stops at Terminal 1 first, during off peak hours…
Final Thoughts
It’s probably a wise idea to check the weather to make sure there are no typhoons or hurricanes forecasted. The end of August and early September is Japan’s typhoon season. You can imagine weather could really play a part in delaying your trip to catch your flight from Kobe to KIX.
Really, the whole trip process was so smooth and in a way, so clock work Japanese. As I looked out my window when the boat departed you could see a porter waving good bye. Everything went so smoothly. Usually I get nervous about trying out a mode of transport for the very first time. Especially when I have to catch a flight home. But this first time going on this high speed ferry boat from Kobe to KIX was a flawless experience.
With a Short Trip to One of My Most Favorite Spots in the World… Arashiyama!
King crabs are a popular delicacy in Osaka…
After staying a week in Kuala Lumpur and then back to Bangkok, a good buddy of mine I knew from my government contract days asked if I wanted to head over to Osaka for sushi. Why not?
Osaka has a special place in my heart. After living in Osaka for 3 months my fondness for the city by the bay grew with everyday I spent living there. I enjoyed mingling with the friendly and hospitable people the most. Working and staying in Japan for me was a real privilege. And a relief from my official duties back in the days.
But before the big sushi dinner I had to make a stop at one of the most magical places on this earth, Arashiyama!
How to Go to Arashiyama from Osaka
At Osaka Station take the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Line 新快速towards Yasu to Kyoto Station
At Kyoto Station take the JR San-In Line 各停towards Sonobe and stop at Saga-Arashiyama Station
At Saga-Arashiyama take the train to Arashiyama Station
Even in early September you can start to see the leaves getting ready to turn to its Autumn colors…
But there is another place I enjoy and you will too just an 1 hour and 40 minutes away called Arashiyama, which is a district of Kyoto City. The train fare from Osaka to Arashiyama cost ¥970.
The best way to get around Arashiyama is by bicycle. And there are a few places near the train station where you can rent a bicycle for ¥800 a day.
But there’s one area where you can’t really bike all the way up to. And that’s Mount Arashiyama! And you can only get up there the old fashioned way.
After walking up Mount Arashiyama I got hungry. It’s a pretty steep climb up a lot of man made steps. But when you get up there the view is so well worth it!
After spending an hour enjoying the splendid view of Kyoto, it was time to get back down and get on that train heading back to Osaka and chow down on some of the best sushi this side of Japan.
Osaka, Day or Night?
Osaka at night is magical. The day was warm but the evening got cooler. Which is why I decided on a day trip in Arashiyama before meeting my friends for that special sushi dinner.
We went to the same old sushi restaurant we’ve always been to when we had long days of intense planning and meetings. Can’t believe it’s still open after all these years!
I forget how many pieces of sushi I’ve downed and how many sake I’ve guzzled but it was one of the most memorable nights of my life.
