Dec 10, 2016 |
Digging Into Malaysia’s Famous “Chilli Pan Mee”
I came across my first ever bowl of Chilli Pan Mee when I went on a “Shutter Therapy” with Robin Wong. That was a few years ago. Since then I have made it a mission to get myself a nice bowl of traditional Malaysian Chilli Pan Mee in Kuala Lumpur whenever I’m there.
Chilli Pan Mee is a real working persons meal. It’s got carbs and protein all in a bowl. The eggless flour noodles are thick, yummy and filling. It’s got crunch from fried anchovies. Some extra savory tastes from the fried shallots and seasoned minced beef.
And depending on which restaurant you go or which area you’re in; Chilli Pan Mee is one of the cheapest meals in Kuala Lumpur.
This bowl of homemade spice is what makes Chilli Pan Mee so special…
But the real kicker on any proper Chilli Pan Mee is the nice poached egg. Wait, I take it back. The real kicker is actually the homemade chilli!
For me this kind of chilli is spicy, but not fiery spicy. You can add 3 or 4 heaping tablespoons and you’ll get that enjoyable heat. But it won’t burn your mouth to the point your eyes start watering and your nose becomes super runny.
You mix everything up with your chopsticks and spoon together and enjoy!
There are many Chilli Pan Mee restaurants all over KL. And my friend Robin showed me a restaurant located in Chow Kit called Restoran Kin Kin.
Restoran Kin Kin is a dive restaurant that is popular with local Malays…
Restoran Kin Kin in Chow Kit
Address: 40, Jalan Dewan Sultan Sulaiman, Kampung Baru, 50300 Kuala Lumpur
There are plenty of famous Chilli Pan Mee restaurants all over KL. Restoran Kin Kin in Kuala Lumpur’s Chow Kit neighborhood is one of them. And this was actually the first restaurant I ever had my first bowl.
Afterwards I’ve tried several other places on my own. Many places came close to Restoran Kin Kin’s style. But it could never replace it.
Restoran Kin Kin is also very easy to find. You can get there by taking the KL Monorail to Medan Tuanku Station. The immediate area surrounding the restaurant may look run down to some but it’s quite safe.
A cook preparing a sheet of dough ready to be sliced into noodles…
I don’t think there is a menu but the staff inside can speak English and I know the owner inside can speak Cantonese and most likely Mandarin too.
But they know if you step foot inside you’re looking for Chilli Pan Mee. The real question is how many bowls you want to order.
And if you have a healthy appetite like me it’ll be more than one!
You can’t just have one bowl…
To me the portions are not too big. But one bowl is enough for a snack I suppose. So if you really want a full on meal I guess you have to order two bowls. Like most customers do. Every time I’m there when I look around Restoran Kin Kin customers usually have extra bowls on their tables.
Besides, a bowl of Restoran Kin Kin’s Chilli Pan Mee only cost 8RM. That’s $1.80USD a bowl. Also a small bowl of spinach egg drop soup is included.
Sep 15, 2016 |
Twice a year I make a trip to Malaysia’s capital city Kuala Lumpur, usually staying for a week. I don’t go there for business. And I don’t go there for leisure. I just go to KL to eat.
Kuala Lumpur is a easy 2 hours flight from Bangkok, Thailand. With another 30 minutes worth of travel time on the fast train from KLCC2 international airport. Tack on another 10 minutes on the KL Monorail and I’m in the heart of a culinary bliss just in time when my hunger pangs set in.
Chilli Pan Mee at Restaurant Kin Kin: Ground Floor, No. 40, Jalan Dewan Sultan Sulaiman 1, Off Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, Chow Kit, 51200
Kuala Lumpur is a haven for top Eurasian and Southeast Asian cuisine. Their roots harken back to the days when Malays, Indians and the Chinese began coexisting when the city began booming on the tin trade.
In KL there’s no such a thing as fusion food. There’s ethnic Chinese, Indian and then there’s Malay. And although one culture may have influence over the other the locals look to their cuisine as one and uniquely their own. As a result there’s nothing but pure magic.
Kl has an eclectic variety of food in each and every neighborhood of KL, especially in Bukit Bintang…
But if you’re looking for genuine authentic Maly, Indian and Chinese food you won’t be disappointed.
Roti paratha, chicken curry and hot ginger tea with milk. I ate this every morning and never got sick of it…
Kuala Lumpur is the original melting pot even before my hometown New York City even heard of the phrase melting pot.
Sadly, it’s not all good news on this most recent trip to KL. Two of my favorite cafés shuttered their doors. Coffea Coffee’s Pavilion Mall location and Espresso Labs Plaza Low Yat branch were out of business. Probably due to the huge rent and Starbucks.
Starbucks branches in KL are the worst and I’ve been to more than a few branches.
With a little bit of googling I found out this branch of Jamaica Blue Coffee at Low Yat Plaza…
Luckily I found Jamaica Blue also located in Plaza Low Yat. So I still have a place to drink some fine coffee and suck up Wi-Fi internet juice for hours.
Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee is conveniently right across from my lunch place! Can’t get any better than that…
Watching Bukit Bintang Change Before My Eyes
Bukit Bintang is like the Times Square of New York City or the Piccadilly Circus of London. There are huge LED screens and billboards displaying advertisements. Though Bukit Bintang is not as huge or even as gaudy believe you me it’ll probably get there in a few years.
Aside from enjoying my daily meals like a gleeful school kid every year in KL I can’t help but notice that buildings are getting taller and taller as construction projects all over the city begin to take shape.
A future residential building with no doubt spaces for commercial spaces…
Same spot as the photo above, but taken the year before…
I usually stay at hotels around Bukit Bintang, which is the main tourists hub of KL. Like most tourists centers around major cities you’ll find lots of restaurants, shopping centers and of course hotels. Plus nearby train stations as well for convenience.
The recently renamed Air Asia Bukit Bintang station…
As of writing Bukit Bintang only has the KL Monorail station which starts at KL Sentral, winding its way through the edge of Little India, Chinatown and onwards to Chow Kit with a stop at Air Asia Bukit Bintang station.
Jalan Bukit Bintang Intersection..
Today there is major construction underway for a brand new MRT subway line complete with station stops in Bukit Bintang.
The completion of Bukit Bintang’s subway line could be years from now…
I’ve only used the city’s subway lines once or twice in all the years I’ve been visiting KL. When the subway trains are up and running it’ll be a great way for me to explore more of Malaysia and find more good eats.
Every year I travel around I begin to see remarkable similarities between my home town of New York and many other major cities around the world. If a city is not expanding, it’s rebuilding and renovating. It’s as if a city is actually alive, not only to thrive but to survive.
The heart of Bukit Bintang’s tourists district…
In a way Kuala Lumpur to me is trying to reinvent itself as many ASEAN members are doing the same. And the city has come a long way from the days when it was just a tin mining town with people from neighboring countries flooding in for the hope of a better life and opportunities.
Oct 31, 2015 |
I’ll be heading over to Malaysia in a few weeks. Every year when I have to head out to do a Visa run I usually head over to Kuala Lumpur. It’s also a perfect excuse to get out and eat all that awesome Malay cuisine. Plus I’ve always enjoyed visiting Malaysia. Downside is I’ll be going back to Thailand a kilo heavier from eating all the good food.
I always stop by this temple on the way to the Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown…
Even though Malaysia is so close to Thailand the vibe is different despite there are so many similarities. Malaysia and Thailand both have some sort of Chinese roots. But With Malaysia it seems to run a little deeper. At least that’s how I feel. But I love how Malay and Indian plus Chinese culture are intertwined.
A little outdoor market I stumbled on parallel to Jalan Petaling…
Malaysia to me also has a very laid back feel. Nobody seems to be in a rush. It used to be like that in Bangkok too but these days most people seem to be walking just a notch faster.
I’ve walked around KL, specifically in the Sentral KL area. There are loads of historical sights and I remember there was a Hop on Hop off bus tour that takes you to most tourists attractions in the city. I went a 4 years ago but this time I might take the tour again, who knows there might be something new this time around.
Apr 2, 2013 |
Before my making the decision that Thailand is the place to run out my clock, I seriously considered retiring in Japan or Malaysia instead. Both countries are special to me though I am more than happy to have made the decision to retire in Thailand. Of course I still visit Japan often but I visit Malaysia even more frequently because it borders west of Thailand.
So why do I love Malaysia? To start off I’ve only been to Kuala Lumpur and Penang. I know, it’s a big country. But just those two areas alone has made a huge impact on me. To me KL is like New York City. It’s one big huge melting pot with people of different ethnicity co-mingling, sharing and eating some of the best food on the planet in one spot.
Bukit Bintang – a very popular tourist center in KL…
Also as I’m able to speak Cantonese which is used in Malaysia the country imparts a sense of homey feeling that I am glad to be in touch with. Plus living in Thailand my Cantonese is beginning to get rusty. So it’s good to head out to Malaysia and start conversing in the language of my mother and father.
Safety is a big concern for me while traveling, especially when my wife is beginning to enjoy traveling to different countries. She prefers road trips all over Thailand for holidays at first. If you don’t know many Thais you’d be surprised that many don’t like to leave their own nation. They would rather visit different regions of their country instead of getting out of the country.
I don’t blame them. After all Thailand is a beautiful country with a lot of natural beauty. So after coaxing my wife (more like nagging) for a year or so she decided to join me on my visits abroad. This was the first trip ever for my wife by the way and she was impressed by KL as well.
KL’s tourist centric areas meets my safety criteria for a populous city and I never had any concerns whether walking the streets day or night with my wife. And traveling around KL is easy. We mostly made use of the monorail system and the fares are not expensive. Taxis are not expensive also but since we were staying in the Bukit Bintang area we came across a lot of drivers who quoted us rates instead of using the meter. Those bastards. Though even with the quoted rates we probably paid a little over $1USD extra. Which isn’t much to cry about but it’s the principle right?
And simply walking around to get to the sights and attractions near our hotel is a cinch because there are plenty of signs in English. It’s a totally visitor friendly city with a lot of hotels in the 3 star range with affordable rates. And food in Malaysia is incredible. Indian, Chinese and Malay plus Middle Eastern food all in one corner of Bukit Bintang close to the hotel I always stay at. Man my waistline is in some serious problems if I ever stay in that area for too long.
And my wife was never too keen on trying out different food. Again, Thai food is equated with national pride, so no matter what, Thai food to a Thai is the best. Better than the best dishes a chef from Cordon Bleu can dole out. Anyways there’s a restaurant right near out hotel that sold falafel and I’ve been ordering falafels from there for the longest time. I let her try one and she damn near took the rest off of my hands. She didn’t say nothing as she merrily munched on my lunch but I knew from the twinkle of her eye she liked it but never admits it to this day
Indian buffet galore…
Then there’s this Indian buffet restaurant with so many trays of spiced meats, curries and vegetables with rice. The food so delicious I’d pay to live inside. Hell I’d pay to inhale the aromas coming off the trays of food.
As I mentioned whenever I’m in KL I always stay an area called Bukit Bintang. This place is filled with a lot of hotel choices and shopping centers. The hotel I stay at is called the Piccolo (today it’s called ANSA). It’s a 3 star hotel with no bells and whistles but if you want a clean quiet room with friendly hotel staff plus top location, the Piccolo will not disappoint. But I mainly chose this hotel and location because of the KL monorail is only a 3 minute walk. I use this train to get to Sentral station where I catch the cheap buses to the low cost carrier terminal because I always fly Air Asia.
A nice hotel right in the heart of Bukit Bintang…
Less than a minute walk left of the Piccolo’s doors is a big mall called Lot 10. Make sure you check out the food courts in the basement level called the Malaysia Gourmet Heritage Village. That’s the place to go to find a lot of Chinese/Malay foods to satisfy your cravings. A nice little supermarket is also in the same area if you need to pick up some odds and ends.
Then there are also two other malls which are even bigger nearby if Lot 10 doesn’t satisfy. There’s the Times Square Mall and the luxury shopping center called Pavilion Mall. Now I’ m not a big shopper. But my wife is though we noticed a lot of the items she was interested in she could easily pick up at a mall in Bangkok.
Of course there’s a lot more to KL than simply shopping. The city has plenty of attractions and side trip options like the Batu Caves.
An unmistakable Kuala Lumpur landmark…
So if there’s one place to see in while in KL it’s probably the Petronas. Now I’ve been to KL for many years and I’m sure if a Malaysian heard me say I’ve never been up their Twin Towers before they might say shame on me. And they would be right. In my defense I tried going up last year in 2012 but the visitor sections of the buildings were under renovation. So no visitors were allowed at the time.
However, this year since my wife came accompanied me on this trip it was as good a time as any to go up the mighty Petronas Towers. And I’m glad that we shared our first time together. Because it is a true marvel to be all the way up there on the Sky Bridge and Observation Deck and get a panoramic view of this wonderful city.
Since our time was short in Malaysia due to some business obligations back in Bangkok we couldn’t visit other parts of the city. Batu Caves on the outskirts of KL was a place I wanted to take my wife to but because it was raining a lot we decided to go up to Genting Highlands Casino instead. She really enjoyed the gondola ride up the mountain.
I love KL and Malaysia is truly awesome. I’ll be going back for years to come.