The One and Only Taipei for First Time Visitors Guide You’ll Ever Need
If you’re planning a trip to Taipei, Taiwan for the first time, you’re in the right place. I’ll point out the single best area to stay in Taipei for sightseeing plus five popular and affordable hotels you will like in Taipei.
Plus I’m throwing in a couple of recommended restaurants in Taipei you should definitely try for a first taste of Taiwan!
And tips on a couple of things you might want to do after landing in Taoyuan Airport. Plus the best way to get from Taoyuan Airport to the city of Taipei.
You’ll certainly learn a lot on this post based on my frequent travel experiences to Taipei!
On This Trip to Taipei, Taiwan…
Usually when I make my annual trip back to New York I usually stop over in Seoul, South Korea for a weeks stay. That’s my usual routine.
But I’ve been changing it up a bit like going to Doha, Qatar for the first time last year. This year, I also decided it was time to visit someplace different again.
My travel agent gave me a few options. Taipei was one of them. And like that, I decided it was due time to visit Taiwan again.
I also wanted to gather and research up to date info for writing this post about visiting Taipei. Particularly for those planning their very own first exciting trip to Taiwan.
Early April weather in Taipei. The weather was cloudy and cool some days other days nice and warm…
If you’re a regular blog reader of mine you know I’m not big on planning. Just like I did when I first visited Taipei or anywhere else for that matter. I just go. And if I make a mistake then I’ve made a mistake and learned something in the end.
So on this guide to Taipei you’ll learn what to expect while traveling to Taipei from the mistakes of yours truly.
I’ll start off by letting you know what to do the first thing after stepping into the arrival hall of Taoyuan Airport. To the best mode of public transportation to reach the city of Taipei.
Here we go!
Landing in Taoyuan Airport – Be Sure to Exchange Currency and Buy a SIM Card at Taoyuan Airport
Don’t Forget to Exchange Your Local Currency for Taiwan Dollars
Having some Taiwanese dollars on hand is important because the country is primarily cash based. Small restaurants do not accept debit/credit cards. Taipei’s widely popular street food and hawker stands only take cash so you better have some on hand.
One of the biggest mistakes I made for my first trip to Taipei years ago was I did not exchange any cash at all at the airport. I mean, there are ATM machines in the airport right next to currency exchange booths. And there are many banks all over Taipei to withdraw cash as well.
Taiwan is still a cash based society…
However if you’re like my mother who only wants to carry cash expecting to exchange it in Taiwan you might run into a bit of bad luck like I have.
Taiwan has strict regulations on currency exchange. Only banks in Taiwan are licensed and authorized to exchange foreign currency. Also all banks in Taiwan close on weekends. On weekdays banks close around 4pm.
Best to exchange currency at Taoyun airport. There are also ATM machines next to currency exchange kiosks inside the airport…
The Story of My Life
So the bad luck I ran into was I had some Thai Baht I wanted to exchange on hand. I was in Taipei during Qingming Festival which fell on a Thursday. Qingming is a big deal holiday in Taiwan so the banks were closed for 4 days straight for a long holiday weekend.
If you’re visiting Taipei during a long holiday and ran into a bit of bad luck like I had, there is an exchange currency center in the basement level of Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Taipei Station Store.
However Shin Kong only exchange major currencies like US, Australia, Japan, China, Canada, Euros, etc.
So I was out of luck again with Thai Baht.
Taoyun Airport is Where You Can Get the Best Currency Exchange Rates
But you’ll get better exchange rates at Taoyuan Airport. So remember, if you plan on exchanging cash on your trip to Taipei do it at Taoyuan airport first.
But if you’re planning to withdraw cash from ATMs in Taiwan then this wouldn’t be an issue. As many 24 hour ATMs can be found all over Taipei.
However, I’m only bringing this currency exchange issue up because I know there are still travelers out there whom prefer to exchange currency.
Don’t Forget to Purchase a SIM Card for Your Mobile Phone
Also at Taoyuan Airport, buy a SIM card for your mobile phone at one of the telecom kiosks located at airport arrival level. You can purchase prepaid 3 day data package which includes 4G access for about NT$300. There are also prepaid SIM card packages that go up to 7 days or monthly. But the minimum plan is 3 days.
Even though there are many Wi-fi hotspots all over Taipei, it’s best to get a Taiwan SIM card installed on your cell phone. So you can use google maps for directions to your hotel. And do some quick research on where to go in Taipei while waiting for a train or grabbing a bite to eat.
https://prepaidsim.twgate.net/index_en.html
Why’s it better to pick up a SIM card inside Taoyuan Airport?
Because if you pick one up at a telecom store in Taipei you will not have much selection. And end up paying more than you’d have to.
For example a few years back when I forgot to buy a SIM card at Taoyuan Airport I then had to buy one at a telecom shop in Taipei. They only had a 5 day SIM card that cost NT$500 in stock. But I was only in Taipei for only 3 days at the time.
If I bought my SIM card at the airport I would’ve saved some cash. So pick up that SIM card at Taoyuan Airport so you’ll get the exact plan you need for the duration of your stay.
Here are 2 Taiwanese Telecom Companies in Taoyuan Airport I recommend located on the arrival hall:
Staff at either shop will help you install the SIM card. As well as register the card so you’re all good to go before stepping out of the airport. With a working SIM card on your phone you can use map apps to pinpoint destinations and search for points of interest and places to rest and eat.
Having internet access on your mobile phone will certainly make your first time visit to Taipei more enjoyable as you can search for directions.
You don’t have to pick up a SIM card if you don’t want to. But today having a map app and the ability to use it on your smart phone is just so convenient. Think about it, you’ll have a chance to read this awesome blog in Taipei whenever and wherever!
Using google map timeline to track where I’ve been came in handy for my blog writing…
Personally, I use Google Maps Timeline to keep track of the places I’ve been to. Which is totally useful for me whenever I need to reference for my blog writing. You can turn google maps timeline on and off anytime.
Airport Bus or Airport Train to Taipei Main Station – Which is Better?
Airport bus from Taoyuan Airport is comfortable but I think it’s best to get to Taipei Main Station riding the Airport MRT instead…
Now that you’re out of the airport you’re thinking about which is the best way to get from Taoyuan Airport to the city. You’ve got two choices to get to Taipei, or to be more precise Taipei Main Station which is the city’s main public transportation hub:
Airport Bus (Kuo-Kuang Line Bus #1819 – NT$135 one-way)
Airport Train (MRT – Mass Rapid Transit – NT$160 one-way)
I have tried both modes of transportation. If you’re heading straight for Taipei Main Station then it’s a no brainer decision to choose the Airport Train.
What About Taxis?
Sure you can hire a taxi but if you want to save some cash, public transport is the way to go. And it’s so easy and simple to use public mass transportation. Plus the money you save will be considerable.
Taoyan MRT Route Map 2018
You’ll Get to Taipei Quicker with MRT
Because airport bus fare to Taipei Main Station cost NT$135 and takes roughly about 1 hour drive with no traffic. The operative word is no traffic. But why risk it?
The Airport MRT cost NT$160 and also takes about an 1 hour to reach Taipei Main Station. The price difference is so small. Pay for the Airport MRT fare and you won’t have to worry about car traffic or accidents and bus malfunctions.
The Airport MRT is the Most Convenient (But the Airport Bus is Useful Too)
That said, the airport bus is your only option to get to Taipei Main Station if you’ve arrived into Taoyuan Airport past midnight. Because the Airport MRT stops service at midnight.
Airport Bus departing Taoyuan Airport to Taipei Main Station runs 24 hours with 15-20 minute intervals.
Now you know how to get from Taoyuan Airport to Tapei Main Station, I’ll point out the best area to stay in Taipei for your first visit to Taiwan!
Matter of fact, you can even walk to this area from Taipei Main Station. It can’t get any easier than that!
Ximending District – The best area to stay in Taipei, Taiwan for your first visit…
Ximending District 西門町 – The One and Only District you Should Stay in Taipei for Your First Visit to Taiwan
Ximending District is a 15 minute walk from Taipei Main Station. You can also hop on a 1 stop subway train ride on MRT Bannan Line (Blue Line) to Ximen station for NT$20 from Taipei Main Station.
The reasons why Ximending is such a highly recommended area to stay in Taipei is because this area has everything you can possibly need for an enjoyable stay in Taipei.
Ximending draws a lot of locals, mostly the young crowd because there’s a lot of shops, movie theaters and special little restaurants. Ximending is Taipei’s major entertainment district!
But the main reason why locals and tourists love Ximending is because of the variety and choices for food! It’s like the entire area is dedicated to foodies.
Staying at a hotel in Ximending is a smart move because everything you’ll need is in walking distance, especially excellent places to eat.
I’ll point out a few places you have to check out for some good Taiwanese food at the end of this guide.
Ximending is like Myeondong District in Seoul, South Korea. And just like it is in Seoul, if you choose to stay in in Ximending you can walk to a lot of popular city tourist attractions in Taipei. Without taking the subway trains.
You can walk to Ximending Station from Taipei Main Station in about 15 minutes. Or you can take the MRT subway train to Ximen station…
You Will See Exploring Taipei on Foot is Quite Pleasant
Taipei truly is one of the best cities to explore on foot. The sidewalks are wide and well paved. There are street signs with English and vicinity maps located throughout street corners.
One thing I want to bring up is local Taiwanese in general do not jaywalk. I’m not aware of any jaywalking laws in Taiwan but locals are super patient and disciplined while waiting for the correct light to cross the road. Even when there are no visible moving cars or motorbikes in sight.
Now that you know why Ximending district is the best area to stay in Taipei, I’ll point out a selection of hotels in Ximending that I’ve personally stayed in and recommend on this guide to visiting Taipei.
Five Taipei Hotels I Recommend in Ximending District
Plus Some Tips on Booking Hotels in Taipei
The key to a good travel experience is to stay at good quality hotels. Though I don’t often plan my trip itinerary. I do spend most of my research time looking for the best areas to stay for sightseeing. And my research showed me Ximending met all my criteria.
The criteria I look for are lively neighborhoods, close to a variety of local food, close to shopping and of course to public transportation.
The hotels and hostels I recommend below are priced in the mid range so about $40USD to $80USD . And depending on the season possibly $100USD.
Lots of restaurants in Taipei open early ready to serve breakfast…
I don’t suggest paying extra for breakfast at any hotel in Taipei. Not unless the price is too good to pass up.
Because what you can find on the streets of Ximending early morning for breakfast is going to be cheaper and most likely tastier than anything you’d find at the hotel for breakfast.
And since all the hotels I recommend below are close to restaurants you can save quite a bit of cash.
And of course you’ll find 7 Elevens and other types of convenience stores near the hotels and hostel in Ximending I recommend.
Also, bear in mind these hotels offer a choice of rooms with windows and no windows. Rooms with windows cost a bit more. All have free internet Wi-Fi access.
Best Hotels in Ximending District
1. Hotel Papa Whale – Rated 4 Star Hotel
Hotel Papa Whale is a hotel in Ximending district highly recommend…
Don’t let the weird name of this hotel fool you. I’ve stayed in Hotel Papa Whale more than a few times. It’s one of the newest and most affordable mid range hotels in Ximending District. The rooms are spacious and clean. There’s a unique industrial factory look and design unlike a conventional hotel.
Here’s an in depth review of Hotel Papa Whale on my most recent stay in Taipei. This is one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in Ximending District.
Hotel Papa Whale: Check Rates How to Get There: 15 minute walk from Taipei Main Station. 10 minute walk from Ximen Station. Address: No. 46, Kunming Street, Wanhua District, Taipei City, Taiwan 108
2. InPage Hotel and Hostel – Rated 3 Star Hotel
InPage Hotel and Hostel is mostly a hostel type property so there’s a shared bathroom access. I know a lot of my readers are females so I recommend InPage Hostel and Hotel because they have female only guest rooms.
Just be sure to indicate during your booking if you want female only guest rooms by inputting it into the special request box.
InPage Hotel and Hostel:Check Rates How to Get There: 10 minute walk from Taipei Main Station. Address: No. 37, Section 1, Chongqing South Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100
3. Roader’s Hotel Taipei – 3 Star Rated Hotel
I also know I have a lot of readers traveling with teens and young children. Which is why I’m recommending Roader’s Hotel because there’s a game room with foosball as well as a kids playroom. And for the adults there’s even a small gym.
Okay, well it’s a very small gym but really there are not a whole lot of hotels in Ximending that is kid friendly with a gym yet affordable.
Roader’s Hotel:Check Rates How to Get There: 10 minute walk from Taipei Main Station. Address: No. 68, Yanping South Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100
4. Orange Hotel Ximending – 3 Star Rated Hotel
I recommend Orange Hotel Ximending because it’s the nicest and most affordable hotel that is only 3 minute walk to Taipei Main Station. I know there are travelers out there for whatever reason they need to get to Taoyuan Airport easily. Because riding the Airport MRT at Taipei Main Station will only take 1 hour to get to Taoyuan Airport.
Besides the convenience factor Orange Hotel Ximending is a nice hotel perfect for families or small groups of travelers.
Orange Hotel Ximending:Check Rates How to Get There: 3 minutes walk from Taipei Main Station Address: 108, Taiwan, Taipei City, Wanhua District, 中華路一段166號之2
5. Relax III Hotel – 3 Star Rated Hotel
Relax III Hotel is perhaps the priciest on this list with prices up to the $100USD range. It’s a very modern hotel with modern decorations and feel. Plus it’s also close to Taipei Main Station, about a 5 minute walk.
I’m recommending this hotel because Relax III Hotel rates usually include breakfast. Okay, so I did mention it’s not necessary to book a room with breakfast included because there are better food options outside of the hotel.
However, I understand that there could be readers that simply want a hotel breakfast without having to go out and search for something to eat.
Also I picked Relax III Hotel for traveling families because at this hotel you can book adjoining rooms.
Relax III Hotel:Check Rates How to Get There: 5 minute walk from Taipei Main Station Address: No. 34, Huaining Street, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100
Now that you know the hotels I recommend in Taipei is all in Ximending District on this guide, I will now point out a few restaurants that I know you will enjoy as much as I did. As well as a couple of other pointers on where you can find some good eats in Ximending District.
Because what good is a guide to visiting Taipei for the first time if I don’t include a section on food!
Where to Find the Best Beef Noodle Soup (牛肉麵) in Ximending District
If you don’t know by now, one of Taiwan’s most famous dish (or should I say bowl) is beef with noodle soup “niu rou mian” (牛肉麵). Now if you do a search on google about where the best beef noodle restaurants in Taipei, chances are you’ll come across the famous Yong Kang Beef Noodles. But that restaurant is not in Ximending district. Which I tried. And yes I agree it’s good.
However, I prefer this hole in the wall restaurant in Ximending District called Fu Hong Beef Noodles 富宏牛肉麵 and they have a Facebook page here. Price for a large bowl cost NT$110 and it’s a big bowl with nice chewy thick chewy noodles and a hefty portion of tender beef in a hearty beef broth.
Fu Hong is just a short 3 minute walk from Hotel Papa Whale, which is another reason why I like to stay there. And Fu Hong is open 24 hours so you can have your beef noodle fix anytime of the day!
Fu Hong Beef Noodle Shop – Both shops are the same so pick whichever one has empty seats…
This restaurant is packed full of hungry customers during lunch and dinner. Since it’s open 24 hours I go eat there for breakfast early in the morning. So not a problem at all getting a seat. You won’t find an English menu because there’s not a lot of tourists that come here.
It’s more of a local joint. And when it’s a restaurant full of locals then it’s a good sign.
There are photos of beef noodles so just point to it and they’ll get you set up with a hot steaming bowl. If you’re into spicy chili try their house made chili oil for a spicy kick in r your pants.
Where to Find the Best Fried Pork Chop Noodle Soup in Ximending District
One of the best restaurants for pork chops and noodles is K.M.Y in Ximending district…
Another dish that you should try before leaving Taiwan is the Fried Pork Chops. You can have it over rice or you can have it over noodles. I always order my pork chops with noodles.
The name of this restaurant is K.M.Y. and that link will get you a google map view with directions. But it’s right in Ximending District and not far from Hotel Papa Whale. Yes, another reason why I like staying at that hotel. The price of this fried pork chop with noodle set is NT$210 which is not a bad deal at all.
I like the fact that their pork chop seasonings is not overly loaded with MSG. They have just the right amount of pepper in the batter and the pork chop is fried to juicy perfection.
The best pork chops with noodle soup are at K.M.Y. restaurant in Ximending District…
K.M.Y. is very busy during peak lunch and dinner full of locals. They open around 11am and close about 9pm. Inside space is small so tables are shared and limited. It’s easier to find a table if you’re eating for one. All you have to do is sit down if a chair is available. And there is an English picture menu so once they figure out you’re not a local they’ll bring you one.
I think most people that come to Ximending come to eat. I haven’t been to all the restaurants in Ximending obviously but you know what, you can’t really go wrong when you see a restaurant with lines of local people waiting out the door.
The Takeaway
Ximending District is without a doubt the best area to stay in Taipei for your first visit. You’ll have a fantastic experience in Taiwan.
There are street performers to keep you entertained while you enjoy a snack on hand. There’s a night market with shops including brand name stores. And believe me you’ll find all kinds of unique Taiwanese savory and sweets to satisfy your appetite in Ximending.
NT$70 and you get this big piece of fried chicken at Hot Star Large Fried Chicken in Ximending District branch…
The train stations are not far away plus as I showed on this guide you’ll find a lot of nice affordable hotels in Ximending District close to some awesome restaurants and a popular night market. I really can’t imagine staying anywhere else in Taipei.
Ximending is truly the one and only district you should think about staying in Taipei for your first visit, without a doubt.
Now that you have learned how to get to Taipei from Taoyuan Airport, plus learned a few things you should not forget after landing and where the best area to stay in Taipei, my question for to you is:
Are You Ready for Your First Visit to Taipei?
You should be. Taipei is a wonderful city with friendly people and so easy to get around, explore and sightsee at your own pace. Without the need of a tour guide. I really enjoy visiting Taipei. So much that I might be coming back here more often every year. Especially on my annual return trips to New York.
And I hope my tips and advice on visiting Taipei for the first time will help you enjoy Taipei as much as I have.
If you have any questions about visiting Taipei, drop a comment below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.
A Little Side Trip From Taipei With Kitty Cats – And a Mystery Shrouding the Village’s History
Recently on my latest Taiwan trip, I came across Houtong Cat Village 侯硐貓村 in Ruifang District, just northeast of Taipei about 35 kilometers and just 1 hour away from Taipei Main Station by train.
After a few days spent sightseeing in Taipei, I decided it was time for a leisure side trip. I wasn’t looking for a full-day trip away from Taipei. Because I also wanted to drop by various locations to explore along the way.
So I googled for some must-see places to visit in Taiwan that were at least an hour away from Taipei and found Houtong Cat Village. A village with lots of cats. Say no more. I’m there.
Anyone who knows me knows I love cats. I adore them to death and have three cuddly fur balls back home in Thailand. I even created an Instagram account for my feline rascals named Cats of Sai Mai (<– Note: shameless plug to get more followers on my cats’ Instagram account) so I couldn’t pass on the chance of being in the pleasant company of cats again.
Houtong Cat Village with the Keelung River cutting through it…
Houtong Cat Village – Or is It Monkey Station?
I can’t read Chinese so while I was doing research for this blog post I wanted to add the Chinese translation of Houtong Cat Village which is this “侯硐貓村” (as listed on google maps) to my blog. You know me, I like to be thorough with my travel blog posts like a good blogger should be.
But the thing is the actual railway station name for the village has this name “猴硐車站” which translates to Monkey Station. Hmm, monkeys and cats, this could get interesting.
But alas, there’s not a single monkey in this village. At least not anymore. When Japan took control of Taiwan in the late 1890s a coal mining industry was started in this village after it was discovered to be rich in coal deposits. There’s even a retired coal mining cave named after monkeys that is a converted tourist attraction today.
It doesn’t matter which name you prefer to call it, Houtong Cat Village or Monkey Station either one will get you here as this is the only village in Taiwan famous for a sizable cat population outnumbering village residents.
The Best Map of Houtong Cat Village (in English)
Most of the maps were in Chinese but I found the only map of the village in English. I wish I had found it earlier during my visit. Because there were a few points of interest I missed out on.
However, one thing I want to point out is that there are slight inconsistencies like the Ruey San Coal Dressing Plant. It doesn’t look like the illustration at all.
Here’s what the Ruey San Coal Dressing Plant looks like…Credit: http://librarywork.taiwanschoolnet.org/gsh2012/gsh7217/houtong_map.html
Granted the entire cat village is not a huge place as you can see on the map. You can find billboard maps at certain points inside the railway station and Houtong Square. But those maps are only in Chinese.
I missed out on the visitor center as I didn’t even know it was there. I found the tourist information center and thought it was the same. Just my opinion but I think they should move the visitor center next to the tourist information center so everyone can find it easily.
猴硐車站 Huotong Station Entrance
So What Happened to the Monkeys?
My theory is since humans have such a propensity to be enormous a-holes the monkeys were forcefully displaced or hunted due to the prospering coal industry. I can imagine that the monkeys were looked upon as a nuisance and were getting in the way of day-to-day mining operations.
I mean, if monkeys lived inside the cave I wouldn’t be surprised at all if a couple of wrenches, hard hats and perhaps coal miners’ lunches went missing oftentimes.
Or maybe the monkeys got scared and fled deep into the mountains after watching 6000 humans move into their neighborhood to work the mines and support the industry.
But Ruifang District’s coal mining stopped operating in the early 1990s and with the downfall of the coal industry, the town population dwindled to less than 100 people as unemployed residents left in search of jobs elsewhere. Yet still no monkeys in sight.
But this isn’t the mystery I’m looking to solve…
But First, Here’s a Look at Houtong Cat Village
Houtong Cat Village opens at 8:00 am and the shops close around 6:00 pm. I arrived at the village in the afternoon and since it was early April the weather was cool and at times windy. It was cloudy which added an extra chill in the air. You can hear the wind blowing on my video’s audio.
There are not a lot of cats on this side of the town which is west of the Keelung River while I was there. At the end of the video, you’ll see the entrance of Monkey Cave. You can only get inside with a guided tour. More details about Monkey Cave are below.
During my visit, most of the cats were found on the residential side of the village…
To find more cats you have to cross the futuristic-looking cat bridge opposite Monkey Cave. This area is where what’s left of the local population lives. And the locals are active in caring for the cats.
I wish I made a video of this part of town but I was too busy playing with the cats. One of the moments as a blogger I wish I had three arms. Oh well, this just means I have to add this to my list the next time I’m back in Taiwan.
How Many Cats Are in Houtong Cat Village?
Hard for me to say since I was only there for about 3 hours. Cats sleep most of the afternoon time and have nocturnal traits. But they are active during mornings and evenings which is the conventional wisdom offered by cat behaviorists.
But I can tell you it’s best to keep your expectations down. I honestly thought I’d find a boatload of cats all lined up in a row everywhere waiting to greet me with purrs while curling under my feet.
Inside Houtong Station you’ll find this photo board near the ticket booth. There are only about 80 cats…
If you ask me about cat behaviors I can tell you this, cats are awake and sleep whatever time they damn please on their own accord. If I recall correctly I came across 15 different cats. And I am sure there are more around somewhere. It’s a big village with plenty of hiding spaces for kitty.
It’s just that it was chilly in the morning and even though the afternoon warmed up a little when the clouds cleared the cats were still snoozing in or keeping warm somewhere.
All the cats I saw that day were adults. Was hoping to see some kittens…
While searching online for Houtong’s cat population number I came across this article stating 200 cats. Another article stated that 80% to 90% of the cat population was neutered and spayed.
At Houtong Station there’s this poster board lined up with cat photos. But I only counted 80 cats and none of them were kittens.
Which leads me to think will there be another generation of cats to bolster the current cat population?
So the next time I go back to Houtong Village I’d like to find out what the official number is closer to.
But first, there’s a mystery to solve and it starts with finding out who Peggy Chien, the woman who single-handedly revitalized the village of Houtong is…
The first time I’ve ever seen a litter box in a train station filled with kitty nuggets…
Houtong Cat Village – How They Get Famous So Fast?
As curious as a cat (pun intended) I was trying to find out how Houtong became a village famous for its cats in a decade.
Online research pointed me to a Taiwanese photographer named Peggy Chien (a.k.a. Chien Pei-ling) who started it all with her Flickr account.
Long story short Peggy’s numerous cat photos in Houtong Village piqued the curiosity of cat-loving Taiwanese people. Eventually, the world matter of fact as her series of cat photos was reportedly seen on Flickr with 800 million views.
That’s an insane number of views. Even for cats if you think about it.
There’s not even a mention in National Geographic’s article about Taiwan’s famous cat village Peggy Chien.
This is the best information I could find about Peggy here. And many other news sources scraped the same article about her to the point I don’t even know where the article originated.
And those articles are the only sources I could base my research on for this blog post.
Maybe this little kitty knows who Peggy Chien is…
Coincidentally Peggy’s husband is a veterinarian and along with a group of volunteers in 2007 they all traveled to Huotong and systematically neutered, spayed, and vaccinated most of the feline population.
With plenty of healthy cats roaming around and thousands of eager visitors waiting to play with kitties, Houtong grew into a village that hosted cat lovers worldwide with cat cafés and shops crammed with cat-themed souvenirs.
Just like that a new tourist industry and the attraction were born. That’s the short history version of course but that’s how this village of kitties in Taiwan came to be such a popular day trip from Taipei.
The Real Mystery of Houtong Cat Village
I wanted to add a photo of Peggy to my blog and as adept as I am with this internet thingie I can’t locate one photo of her. There’s no luck finding the actual Peggy Chien (also her alias) of Houtong Village’s claim to fame on Facebook and Instagram.
We all know how easy it is to find people these days on both social media platforms especially if there’s notoriety attached to a name. And reportedly she published several books featuring the cats of Houtong Village too.
Granted maybe she doesn’t have a Facebook account. But she’s reportedly a photographer by trade. If so the least she would have is an Instagram account, right?
I mean look, even my cats have their own Facebook page here. (<– Note: look, another shameless attempt to get more likes! Might as well click the link and follow my cat’s FB page and be done with it)
Souvenir store on the residential side of the village. Regardless of where Peggy Chien is it’s undeniable that cats have revived this village…
Also, I couldn’t even find one book title she published. Or her Flickr account with the 800 million views that started it all. Not even a photo of herself in Houtong Village doing what she does best. Mysterious indeed don’t you think? (cue X-Files theme song)…
Back to the Cat Village
But I digress. I suppose it doesn’t matter. What matters is that a wonderful little village has been given a second life with thousands of visitors coming in on weekends to have a chance to enjoy the company of cats and breathe the fresh mountain air.
The denizens of Houtong averted the possibility of their village becoming a ghost town. There’s a good uplifting story in there no matter how you look at it.
Maybe even a Hollywood movie will be made one day where they’ll cast Scarlett Johansson to play Peggy Chien. Have you seen Ghost in the Shell?
Peggy if you’re out there they should make you the Mayor of Houtong Cat Village.
This is the first souvenir shop right downstairs from Houtong station…The village square has a handful of restaurants and souvenir shops…This souvenir shop sells Taiwan’s famous pineapple cakes in the shape of cats…
Chances are if you’re in Houtong Cat Village you’re also going to want to check out Monkey Cave. It’s connected to the Ruey San Coal Transportation Bridge over the Keelung River.
Assuming you’ve successfully maneuvered past all the folks taking selfies. This bridge is a great spot to get a magnificent 360 view of the mountains surrounding the village.
I haven’t been all over Taiwan yet but after spending a little bit of time on this bridge overlooking the Keelung River and viewing the mountains with thick lush green trees and plants one can’t help but think “Wow Taiwan is really beautiful”.
Ruey San Coal Transportation Bridge connects Monkey Cave and Houtong Village Square…
Monkey Cave
This is the only attraction in Huatong Village with an entrance fee. An adult ticket cost NT$150 and if I recall correctly NT$100 for children. I think it’s worth it and the money funnels back into the village so why not?
Sitting on a toy train and getting ready to get into Monkey Cave…
You and a group of tourists ride a toy train through a short section of tunnels. Eventually, there will be an open area where everyone gets off. The tour guide/toy train operator only spoke Chinese.
He explained the history of Monkey Cave the daily lives of coal miners that lived in the village and how they worked. I can’t understand Mandarin Chinese but I’m pretty sure that’s everything he said.
Maybe if I could understand Mandarin Chinese I would’ve learned what happened to the monkeys.
This little toy train with enough space for approximately 20 people…Tour guide and toy train operator. He only speaks Mandarin Chinese…The next time you complain about your job just remember this photo…
After the explanation, visitors stay in the area for about 15 to 20 minutes where they can put on hard hats and handle pneumatic drills and push around wheel barrels. The perfect time for obligatory snapshots and selfies.
It’s the one time in your life you get to play pretend you’re a coal miner. If you’re traveling with kids I think they will enjoy this part of the tour.
There are fewer cats to see around Monkey Cave…
After visiting this side of the Keelung River it was time for me to head to the other side of the village where it is said you can find even more cats.
Remember, the Keelung River splits the village in two so all I had to do was make my wake back across the bridge through the railway station and walk across the cat bridge.
If you do not want to take a tour of Monkey Cave you can certainly learn a lot about the village’s past coal mining operation at the visitor center near Huatong Railway Station. There are public bathrooms inside the visitor center…
From the Monkey Cave entrance to the cat bridge is a short 15-minute walk. This village isn’t all that big. Which is why you probably won’t need to stay here the entire day.
I remember as I was making my way across the village the sun started to peak out and the wind died down. With luck, more cats will come out to warm themselves and soak up the sun.
Off to the Other Side of the Village, I Go
Cat Bridge -Kind of resembles a cat but could be I took this pic at the wrong angle…
On this side of Houtong, you’ll see it’s the main residential section of the village. Some of the residents have converted their dwellings into cafés and some sell souvenirs and food outside of their homes.
But you’ll also see evidence of collapsed homes and some that fell into disrepair. I was quickly reminded that Houtong Village once had a population of around 6000 people when the coal mining industry was booming.
A row of cat café in Huatong Village…
I could see there were more cats in this section of the village. This makes sense because there are locals in this part of town with a ready supply of kitty kibble to feed hungry feline residents. Most of them looked feral however and don’t let humans too near them.
And because the clouds cleared you can see a handful of cats sunning themselves after a chilly start in the morning. Cats wearing collars were more friendly and playful most likely because they’re used to being around people.
Awwww…Don’t you just admire a cat’s grooming ability?…
The Rules of Huatong Village Cat Club
You can tell the residents of the village value the feline population that shares space with them. All the cats I’ve seen look well-fed and cared for.
Some I saw lived indoors with residents but every single cat was coming and going minding their businesses. But almost everywhere I saw have cat shelters placed all over. It’ll be difficult to find a homeless cat in Houtong that’s for sure.
There are even rules posted throughout the area such as:
Do not scare the cats or chase them
Do not feed the cats inferior food
Do not use flash photography on the kitty
And there are rules to protect the village property and personal health like:
Do not leave leftover food
Wash hands after playing with cats
Pick up garbage and keep all areas clean
Feeding Time – A resident prepares a mix of wet and dry cat food for feeding time…The entrepreneurial spirit is not dead in Huatong Cat Village…Many cats are looked after by local business owners like this kitty inside this cat café…
How to Get to Houtong Cat Village from Taipei
What I did was take a northbound train to Ruifang. Train fare cost NT$56 one way at Taipei Main Station. You can purchase tickets from automated vending machines but there are no English instructions.
However, station workers are wearing a yellow vest that can speak English and they can assist you with purchasing the right ticket and direct you to the correct platform.
Make sure you don’t lose your ticket because there will be a station attendant waiting to collect your ticket near the station exit. If you lose your ticket they will make you clean every single litter box in the station.
Houtong Railway Station
Spending two to three hours in Houtong Cat Village is sufficient enough. Additionally, you can also visit nearby Shifen Old Street 十分老街 with its scenic waterfall.
Plus the old gold mining town of Jiufen 九份 also another historic district in Taiwan (I’ll have blog posts about both areas soon) to make a complete day trip from Taipei.
The next time I return to Houtong Cat Village I’m going to make sure I don’t go there on weekends. Because the Riufang train route is very popular with visiting tourists and locals making stops at Huatong, Shifen, and Jiufen. It’s better off visit on weekdays to avoid crowds.
The Takeaway
If you’re looking for a nice little side trip from Taipei and have a soft spot for cats you should come visit Houtong Cat Village. The landscape surrounding the village is breathtaking and if you visit there during the summer the view is even better.
But I certainly enjoyed my time there even though the temperature started chilly.
I recommend visiting Houtong Cat Village with your kids…
If you’re traveling with children this will be a fun outing for them. All the kids I saw looked like they were having a good time.
Whether by chance or design, I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. And this is a place that I would certainly visit again when I’m back in Taiwan.
If you need some information about visiting Houtong Cat Village or if you know anything about Peggy Chien so that I may update this blog post, please drop a comment below.
One of the Best Hotels in Ximending District, Taiwan
I’ve stayed in plenty of budget hotels all over Taipei, Taiwan. And I prefer searching for hotels in Taipei’s Ximending District. Simply because it’s one of the best areas to stay for tourists. So what do I look for when I’m searching for hotels on the internet?
I start with hotels with weird names. And it doesn’t get any weirder than Hotel Papa Whale.
Sure, I know it’s an odd way to pick a hotel. But let’s face it, Hotel Papa Whale is an eye catching unique name. If this was a marketing ploy, it worked. Even while I was searching for Hotel Papa Whale reviews I could see a lot of guests who’ve stayed there previously have the same sentiment.
Anyways if it indeed was a marketing ploy it worked. After delving into Hotel Papa Whale’s details to make this review I took a good look at the hotel’s surrounding area.
I became satisfied as it looked like a decent hotel to stay in Taipei. So I leaped and booked a room. That was a few years ago.
After a few more stays at this wildly popular budget hotel in Taipei’s Ximending district, I decided to write up a review of Hotel Papa Whale this time to help bolster my most excellent post Guide to Visiting Taipei.
Guest reception area at Hotel Papa Whale…
The Location
Hotel Papa Whale is located in Ximending District as I already mentioned. It’s the best area to stay in Taipei hands down for first-time tourists visiting the city. Though the hotel property is on the outskirts of Ximending there is a benefit. And that is it’s not too crowded.
Yet still easy to walk out from the hotel and enjoy the atmosphere as well as find plenty of yummy Taiwanese food and snacks outside the hotel vicinity.
Plus the dozens of 7-Elevens nearby. I’m not kidding. You’ll see when you get there.
Ximending District is most active starting from the afternoon until late at night so expect a lot of people both locals and tourists alike. Although it’s mainly a shopping area I believe most people go to Ximending for the food.
Ximending District has a lively nighttime atmosphere. It’s a great area to stay for shopping and eating day and night…
Hotel Papa Whale is not exactly centrally located in Ximending. But you can still walk from the hotel to Taipei Main Station to catch the Airport Train in about 15 minutes.
The hotel property is huge and encompasses a third of the entire block. With a huge hot pot, sushi restaurant, and dessert shop on the ground level. It’s all part of the hotel so if you book a room at Papa Whale with breakfast included you’ll be eating hot pot for breakfast.
However, I never booked a room that included breakfast at Hotel Papa Whale. Only because there are so many restaurants outside to eat instead. But maybe one day I’ll try it out just for the experience.
The Room
For this trip to Taipei, the room type I booked at Hotel Papa Whale for this review is called “Elegant Double Room” and the room size is 13 m² with no view.
If you’ve never stayed inside a room with no window before it’s odd at first. But you get used to it.
However, Hotel Papa Whale has this workaround where they place daylight LED strips outside faux windows. Which makes it seem like you’ve got a view of the outside. Well, sort of…
The weird thing is it’s on 24 hours. Unless there was a light switch but I couldn’t find it. It’s good that the hotel had blackout curtains installed or else my circadian clock would go bonkers.
I booked a room on Agoda.com for $80 USD a night with taxes included and no breakfast. Which is not a bad price at all for a hotel in a prime location in Taipei. But there are cheaper rates for rooms located on the basement level of Hotel Papa Whale.
Please excuse my pajamas on the bed. I don’t know what I was thinking…
The other side of the room and more of my dirty laundry…
A nice big work desk to fit the junk for a travel bloggers needs…
The bed was really nice and comfortable. And the large screen television in front of the bed was a bonus. With lots of television channels including a bunch of movie channels with Hollywood hits. It’s a nice room, big too with high ceilings so you don’t get that cooped up feeling. Unlike most newer hotels today that are built smaller.
Another plus point for Hotel Papa Whale is the amount of universal electrical sockets available in the room. Which comes in handy for any digital nomad. With gear that needs constant battery charges. And because the installed sockets are compatible with most plugs you don’t need to carry around power adapters.
To me, that’s a bonus point for Hotel Papa Whale.
What is a bit odd are the hallways of the hotel. And it is a big hotel with only one set of elevators. There are a total of 365 rooms with 4 floors of guest rooms.
So if you’ve got yourself a room at the far end you will be walking for a little bit. But of course, they do have hotel staff who can help you move large luggage around.
Doesn’t this look like a dormitory on a spaceship?
Check out that hallway that leads to my room. It has this cool sci-fi look and feel. I felt like a Storm Trooper was going to round the corner anytime soon. Anyways, back to the room review.
The Bathroom
Hotel Papa Whale has earned a lot of points in my book for their bathroom design. There are these cool bathroom fixtures sort of giving off a steampunk style and feel. The shower room and bathroom are separated by a wash basin.
And of course, there’s free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel property. And I must say the connection was fast and I never had any problems with connecting and signal drop-offs.
Also, every room has an individual thermostat so you can set the temperature to cold or warm. There is also a small electronic safe plus a refrigerator with 2 bottles of water stocked daily during room cleaning.
The Overall Hotel Property
So there’s also a laundry room though I have never used it before. I usually save all my dirty laundry until I’m back in NYC to wash it all. Hotel Papa Whale is not considered a fancy hotel. There’s no swimming pool, or fitness center with white-gloved services.
But they serve the purposes of travelers who simply desire a modern and clean room to rest after a long day of sightseeing. Which suits me perfectly.
A large selection of books for guests to browse through in the hotel lobby
Sorry, I didn’t have a chance to review the breakfast offerings from Papa Whale Hotel. I try to be as thorough as I can whenever I do hotel reviews.
But to be honest, whatever Taipei hotel review I do I’m not tempted at all by hotel breakfast. Unless its overall room rate is too good to pass up.
Lots of restaurants in Taipei open early ready to serve breakfast…
You can find a ton of good restaurants near the hotel if you just walk towards central Ximending. Part of the overall travel experience is eating like locals. That’s my take on it so I don’t believe you need to book a room at Papa Whale Hotel with breakfast.
The Takeaway
On my most recent visit to Taipei, I stayed in Hotel Papa Whale for a week for this blog review. I had no problems with the rooms and services. There are lots of hotels in Ximending District to pick and choose from.
Hotel Papa Whale is one of the best ones in my book for anyone not looking to spend more than $50USD to $80USD a night.
For me, the price was just right. Hotel Papa Whale is not far from Taipei Main Station so you can easily access Airport Bus or Airport MRT train. It’s within walking distance to many of Taipei’s historical sightseeing locations like the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial and also the Taiwan National Museum and others.
Most importantly Hotel Papa Whale is in the Ximending District, which is one of the best areas to visit Taipei, especially for first-time visitors who want to see the best of Taipei.
If you would like to add your own Papa Whale Hotel review to this blog post please drop a comment below. You can find the best rates and reviews on Agoda.com as I did.
TheWayfaringSoul.com is an online travel guide to Asia. Written by Warren, a native New Yorker and long-term resident in Thailand.
